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Live Long & Prosper
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Discussion Starter #1
I had removed the pesky labels on the Nomad hard bags with the approved hairdryer method. The labels came off very nicely but left the usual sticky area underneath. I tried using GooGone a couple of times, letting it soak a little, and using very gentle wiping to avoid paint damage. I just couldn't get all the glue off the surface. :mad:

Then, after reading posts from several of you on removing glue with WD40, I put the GooGone away and found my can of WD40. What a difference in performance. I used the same technique with the WD40 and had all the glue off in just a couple of minutes.

I cleaned it all up and applied some wax - now it looks like there were never any stickers. Color me happy! :smile:
 

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Proud Hokie!!
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I've used WD40 for many years...best adhesive remover I've ever found!
 

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Registered
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I've found similar results, never did that great with googone. Darn WD-40 does just about everything :D
 

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Jason C
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I took of my badges today and used WD40. That stuff does a fantastic job. I was wondering if anyone here coats their bike with WD40 while storing it? My brother told me he sprays his entire engine and pipes with it.
 

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Live Long & Prosper
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Discussion Starter #6
I took of my badges today and used WD40. That stuff does a fantastic job. I was wondering if anyone here coats their bike with WD40 while storing it? My brother told me he sprays his entire engine and pipes with it.
While I give WD-40 top grades on removing the adhesive, and cleaning too, I've heard that it's not the best at coating and preventing rust, evaporting too quickly and leaving the surface exposed. The best rust prevention sprays are probably in the LPS line. Take a look at LPS-2, or better yet LPS-3, if you are looking to prevent corrosion. That stuff meets Mil Specs on rust prevention.
 

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Patriot Guardian
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28,016 Posts
+1

WD40 is an excellent solvent. It's not primarily a lubricant. I use it on O-ring and X-ring chains on dirtbikes, but as a cleaner... the lubricant is sealed inside the rings... the WD40 ain't getting in, and neither would "chain lube".
However, "chain lube" would leave a sticky residue on the outside of the chain that is a magnet for this abrasive stuff we have in California called "silt".
 

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Registered
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WD40 is an excellent solvent. It's not primarily a lubricant.
Glad to hear you say this Rich, get a lot of folks that believe WD40 (Water Displacement - 40th attempt) is a lube-all (my dad taught me that), rather than a solvent. Round my shop we called it "Rust-in-a-Can"! Good for door hinges inside the house and removing goo but not much else.
Want lube, use Boeing T-9 or something equiv. not WD.
 

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Patriot Guardian
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28,016 Posts
Isn't WD-40 something like a modified version of kerosene?
Dunno.
It used to be highly flammable (could actually be used as a starting fluid), but they changed that... not sure if it was the fluid or the propellant.
It is petroleum based, and will attack and swell silicone model airplane fuel line.
 

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Power Hungry V2K Rider
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Dunno.
It used to be highly flammable (could actually be used as a starting fluid), but they changed that... not sure if it was the fluid or the propellant.
It is petroleum based, and will attack and swell silicone model airplane fuel line.
It was the propellant that was flammable (propane), they are now using a less flammable propellant (CARBON DIOXIDE).

From the MSDS provided for WD-40:

3 - Composition/Information on Ingredients
Ingredient CAS # Weight Percent​
Aliphatic Hydrocarbons 45-50%
Petroleum Base Oil 15-25%
LVP Aliphatic Hydrocarbon 12-18%
Carbon Dioxide 2-3%
Non-Hazardous Ingredients Mixture <10%


http://www.wd40.com/Brands/pdfs/msds-wd40_aerosol.us.pdf

The proportion of Aliphatic Hydrocarbons is s trade secret.
 

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I use WD40 for cleaning, for light lube and rust protectant nothing beats the Boeing T9. Everytime I got a new machine, bike, car or lawnmower, it would have a Boeing T9 treatment first. I don't worry riding in a salted roads ;)
 

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the "fun" guy
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Like SeaFoam...WD-40 is our friend. :)
 

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i use it to coat my 4 wheelers and ski's,the mud and salt never stick, i use the gallon jug and spray bottle to mist it on,been doing it for years and works great............
 

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I don't know about anyone else, but one wise man always told me to carry WD40 and duct tape in my truck.

"If it should move, and it doesn't use the WD40. If it shouldn't move, and it does, use the duct tape."
 

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Proud Hokie!!
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564 Posts
On another forum I frequent (MGExperience.net) for my MGB passion, we use another product for rust prevention and even rust abatement. It's sold in hardware stores and home centers in the paint department, and it's called Penetrol -
Penetrol reduces brush marks and leveling problems with paint

The rust claim is big in Oz -
The Flood Company Australia

It's EXCELLENT for protecting metal, but it does leave a residue. So on cars, it's good for undercoating and coating inside fender wells, castle rails, dog legs, etc... It's actually sold an a paint extender and a product that adds elasticity to paint. One of the guys on the forum brags about how he sprayed his old Ford tractor that was sitting in the field rusting (no surface prep work) and a few years later...the rust was pretty much where it was when he first sprayed it - and it hadn't advanced. Sounds incredible for tin cancer...but I've been thrilled with the results on my MBG. Now...where would you use it on a bike since it leaves a film? Not sure, but I'll bet someone on here can suggest some uses - even if on older restorations.
 
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