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Discussion Starter #1
I need to rebuild my carbs on a 95 ninja zx6r and I was just on bike bandit looking at the carb shematic and Im pretty sure I dont need all of the parts there to rebuild the carb but I was wondering if theres any other parts besides the floats and needle and what needles if not all of then I would need, thanks for your help to all that answer.

Also before I go into this, when pouring sea foam directly into the carb where exatcly is that at, the top of the 4 barrels where the little metal peices slide open when you hit the throttle down in there or what. Thanks once again
 

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you didn't say why you need to do this so, probable part to replace in a carb is the float valve/float needle and seat, not the float. very seldom will you need a slide needle and emulsion tube.

the best thing would be to pull it apart and look at the parts before you order a lot of parts.

the seafoam would go into the gas line that comes off the fuel petc*ck.
 

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The Cruising Gunsmith
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the best thing would be to pull it apart and look at the parts before you order a lot of parts.
You'll save a lot of money ordering a rebuild kit that comes with jets, needles, and all the gaskets and screws. I have seen them for under $20 for various bikes.
 

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You'll save a lot of money ordering a rebuild kit that comes with jets, needles, and all the gaskets and screws. I have seen them for under $20 for various bikes.
every float valve that I replaced at work were well over $20 each. don't know about the quality if the whole kit would cost $20.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
you didn't say why you need to do this so, probable part to replace in a carb is the float valve/float needle and seat, not the float. very seldom will you need a slide needle and emulsion tube.

the best thing would be to pull it apart and look at the parts before you order a lot of parts.
Im getting gas in the oil, lots of it and someone told me that the float or something like that might be getting stuck open so I figured its all gummed up or something, I didnt do any storage procedures last winter because this is my first bike and I didnt know any better nore had I found this forum, I know absolutely nothing about taking a carb apart except what I would be able to pulll out of my Haynes manual so I'm kinda hesitant about pulling the thing apart and ending up costing myself more money, Im already strapped as it is and I have a son on the way in January.

I couldnt find any carb rebuild kits for my bike only the sperate parts on bikebandit.com and I wanted to know what I would need so I could times everything by 4 and see how deep its gonna dig in my pocket
 

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Go to Nicholsons on Jackson road, and throw this Parts Unlimited catalog number at the parts guy.

18-2639 FITS MODEL: ZX600A/B/C Ninja 600R/600RX 85-97 $21.95

These do not come with a float, but you probably don't need it, it just may need adjustment.
 

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The Cruising Gunsmith
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every float valve that I replaced at work were well over $20 each. don't know about the quality if the whole kit would cost $20.
The kit I got was from Keystar as I recall, and every piece looked exactly like OEM. No complaints at all on quality. The amazing thing is it included the tiny 125 Mikuni main jets that are absolutely unavailabe anywhere on earth.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
thanks for the advise man, they got alot of stuff that I need/want for my bike that i couldnt find other places so ill probably hit them up more than once
 

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Im getting gas in the oil, lots of it and someone told me that the float or something like that might be getting stuck open so I figured its all gummed up or something, I didnt do any storage procedures last winter because this is my first bike and I didnt know any better nore had I found this forum, I know absolutely nothing about taking a carb apart except what I would be able to pulll out of my Haynes manual so I'm kinda hesitant about pulling the thing apart and ending up costing myself more money, Im already strapped as it is and I have a son on the way in January.

I couldnt find any carb rebuild kits for my bike only the sperate parts on bikebandit.com and I wanted to know what I would need so I could times everything by 4 and see how deep its gonna dig in my pocket
gas in the oil will be the float valve (needle and seat) is bad. when you pull the carbs apart there will be a ring around the needle, maybe some pitting that is allowing the fuel to pass.
 

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The Cruising Gunsmith
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gas in the oil will be the float valve (needle and seat) is bad. when you pull the carbs apart there will be a ring around the needle, maybe some pitting that is allowing the fuel to pass.
And here's how you can fix that:

wrap a bit of masking tape around the needle with the tapered end exposed. Load it into the chuck of a low speed hand drill and spin it. Use some 400 and 600 sandpaper to polish the tapered edges until they are mirror smooth again.

I used to tape wrap the brass seat threads too and put it into the drill. I'd use a Q-tip and some chrome polish to shiny up the inside surface that the tapered pin mates with.

After that, they seal like when they were new.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
well heres what im going to do, tear one of the carbs apart, take some pictures and post them here and you guys can tell me if you think based on what you see if I should take a crack at the other 3, I can take the carb off the bike and do everything to it in the house correct?? its 27 degrees right now and cold metals not really my friend
 

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well heres what im going to do, tear one of the carbs apart, take some pictures and post them here and you guys can tell me if you think based on what you see if I should take a crack at the other 3, I can take the carb off the bike and do everything to it in the house correct?? its 27 degrees right now and cold metals not really my friend
You'll have to look at all the carbs. Any one of the 4 could be causing the problem, although I'm sure all the carbs will have signs they need to be cleaned.
 

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You'll have to look at all the carbs. Any one of the 4 could be causing the problem, although I'm sure all the carbs will have signs they need to be cleaned.
yep, yep. when it comes to the float valves, if you have one that is bad replace them all while you have them apart.
 

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yep, yep. when it comes to the float valves, if you have one that is bad replace them all while you have them apart.
Would you say that if you have to replace the needle valve, that the brass seat should also be replaced at the same time? Or do the needles wear faster since they're rubber tipped whereas the seat is brass?
 

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The Cruising Gunsmith
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well heres what im going to do, tear one of the carbs apart, take some pictures and post them here and you guys can tell me if you think based on what you see if I should take a crack at the other 3, I can take the carb off the bike and do everything to it in the house correct?? its 27 degrees right now and cold metals not really my friend
Your wife may not appreciate the stink of carburetor cleaner filling the house.
 

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Would you say that if you have to replace the needle valve, that the brass seat should also be replaced at the same time? Or do the needles wear faster since they're rubber tipped whereas the seat is brass?
AFAIK, the brass seats aren't removeable. They haven't been on any of the carbs I've worked on. But you're right, the brass shouldn't ever need to be replaced as the float valve has a rubber top.

Your wife may not appreciate the stink of carburetor cleaner filling the house.
I know my room mates didn't. :? Well, one did, but we're self-admitted gasoline junkies :mrgreen:
 
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