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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well the restoral project is moving along.
Have a quick question. The battery acid was spilled all over the inside of the machine, distroying any paint it made contact with, the battery well, the frame, both stands and messed up the chrome on the pipes.
What products should I use to knock the rust back / take care of it / remove it / make it not continue to rust? I don't want to spend alot of $$ but want a solid product that doesn't need redone in 2 months. I want bike to run around on and is safe. It doesn't have to look like a beauty queen. I have heard of Rustolium, but not sure how good it works or would hold up for a frame / battery box / stands. I know it won't do anything for chrome.
 

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Patriot Guardian
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Rust is a cancer and it has to be 100% removed or it will return.

Neutralize the acid with a baking soda wash, and clean it as best you can to bare metal with emery paper.

Naval Jelly, and some other similar products should do a decent job at chemically converting the remaining rust (in the pits that you aren't going to get completely cleaned out) into a primer.
 

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Try NevRdul on your chrome. It comes in a silver can, contains wooly wadding that is soaked in some magic chemical.
It will remove SURFACE rust on chrome, and leave it shiny. It works really well if the chrome's not too far gone.
 

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Chrome

The previous owner of my KZ1100 apparently removed the battery drain tube. Resulting in battery acid dripping on the exhaust pipe. The acid left a dull black smudge on the exhaust pipe. The only thing that I could find that worked was wet sanding the exhaust pipe with chrome polish and 400 grit wet and dry sand paper. The smudge is gone with a slight dulling of the chrome.
 

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The Cruising Gunsmith
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Rust is a cancer and it has to be 100% removed or it will return.
Yeah, I used to make $$$ doing body work... whenever anybody asks what the cure for rust is, I automatically say:

"SELL THE THING"

Neutralize the acid with a baking soda wash, and clean it as best you can to bare metal with emery paper.

Naval Jelly, and some other similar products should do a decent job at chemically converting the remaining rust (in the pits that you aren't going to get completely cleaned out) into a primer.
Naval jelly is the only thing that converts rust, but if I recall it has phosphoric acid in it and is extremely corrosive. Only apply it to rust and then neautralize it afterwards so it can't migrate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yeah, I used to make $$$ doing body work... whenever anybody asks what the cure for rust is, I automatically say:

"SELL THE THING"
Yea well I'm the knucklehead that bought it!!!! :shock:

Naval jelly is the only thing that converts rust, but if I recall it has phosphoric acid in it and is extremely corrosive. Only apply it to rust and then neautralize it afterwards so it can't migrate.
Neautralize with baking soda & water again I assume??? :mrgreen:
 

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Patriot Guardian
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HOT water... it will evaporate faster and be less likely to cause rust to return.
 

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The rust should be sanded (dry with coarse grit paper), primed and the area repainted. Better than sanding is getting the parts sand blasted. Once blasted, wipe with alcohol and prime/re-paint. If you buy a quart of phosphoric acid, it isn't particularly nasty. Most professional bridge painters use phosphoric acid on metal bridge surfaces prior to painting in order to remove and neutralize rust. This particular acid kills the rust as it changes the actual chemical composition... you still need to remove loose rust. You can also paint the treated area with ZINC paint. This paint is used on weld joints on metal fences to keep that area from rusting. Once you have sprayed the area with the zinc paint, you can prime and repaint.
 
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