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Test Pilot
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Discussion Starter #1
I'm thinking of using semi-synthetic oil for my 03 Vulcan Classic 1500 this spring. Here in Canada, can somebody give me a couple of preferred brand names that I could buy ? I know there are tons of various oils in the States, but being in Canada, I need to know what I can buy and where.
Thanks
 

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Test Pilot
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Discussion Starter #3
Valvoline Car or MC oil ?
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I have a 06 Nomad changed oil at 600 to Castrol full synthetic 10W 40W. I plan to change it every 4000. Thats now or in April just before I load it up for Myrtle Beach.
 

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Test Pilot
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Discussion Starter #5
I have a 06 Nomad changed oil at 600 to Castrol full synthetic 10W 40W. I plan to change it every 4000. Thats now or in April just before I load it up for Myrtle Beach.
Castrol synthetic car oil or MC ? I usually change my oil at every 2000 miles using Castrol GTX regular car 10W-40. A friend of mine tells me I should be using semi-synthetic for one reason only. He says if I were to use only 100% synthetic, and for whatever reason on a long trip if I needed to add oil, I may have a hard time finding full synthetic on the road, but apparently, if I were to use semi-synthetic, and I were in a bind, I could add normal MC or car oil to it, if I were down a quart or less. He also told me that my shifting would be smoother with the semi-synthetic oil as opposed to the regular MC or car oil. I only use car oil that doesn't have energy conservatives on the doughnut on the back of the bottle.
 

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Patriot Guardian
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None of them.

Semi-synthetic is only semi-expensive and semi-protective.

You don't get the full benefits of a full synthetic, but you get nearly all of the cost.

One of the big problems is you simply don't know HOW MUCH synthetic you're getting... legally, a manufacturer could put 1oz of synthetic base stock in a quart and call it "semi synthetic" or a "blend".

Either stick with a good dino at 2k intervals or go full synthetic at 3+ (I'm getting ready to mail a sample for testing of M1 V-Twin 20w50 at 6k).

Stay away from Motul Twin-Synd.. that crap had my clutch slipping in less than 1000 miles. Thought I smoked the clutch... replaced it, slipping was back almost immediately. Changed the oil, problem gone.
 

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Patriot Guardian
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He says if I were to use only 100% synthetic, and for whatever reason on a long trip if I needed to add oil, I may have a hard time finding full synthetic on the road, but apparently, if I were to use semi-synthetic, and I were in a bind, I could add normal MC or car oil to it, if I were down a quart or less.
Horgwash.
What do you think semi-synthetic is? It's synthetic blended with conventional.

Even on the Amsoil site it says that you can mix synthetic and conventional, just treat the resulting mixture as if it were 100% conventional... and there's no reason that you can't add 1 quart or 2 quarts of conventional oil if needed on the road.

A lot of things have changed since the early days of synthetics, yet the misinformation persists.

As far as running car oil, I am getting more and more cautious. Mobil-1 15w50 "Redcap" and later "Goldcap" have been reliable oils for MC's for a long time. I tried the new API-SM formula that is available now and experienced minor slippage in 5th gear roll-ons.
Personally, for a non-synthetic top-off on the road, I would stick with Castrol GTX.

As far as "energy conserving", due to the standards, you will not find ANY oil heavier than 10w30 with the "EC" donut.
 

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Ridden like a Ford!
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Castrol synthetic car oil or MC ? I usually change my oil at every 2000 miles using Castrol GTX regular car 10W-40. A friend of mine tells me I should be using semi-synthetic for one reason only. He says if I were to use only 100% synthetic, and for whatever reason on a long trip if I needed to add oil, I may have a hard time finding full synthetic on the road, but apparently, if I were to use semi-synthetic, and I were in a bind, I could add normal MC or car oil to it, if I were down a quart or less. He also told me that my shifting would be smoother with the semi-synthetic oil as opposed to the regular MC or car oil. I only use car oil that doesn't have energy conservatives on the doughnut on the back of the bottle.
well if that were the case, then buy an extra quart of oil and take it with you.
i wouldnt use anything less that full synthetic. and i use regular auto synthetic 10w-40. im on my 3rd bike and have never had any problems. i change the oil between 3-5K miles
 

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None of them.

Semi-synthetic is only semi-expensive and semi-protective.

You don't get the full benefits of a full synthetic, but you get nearly all of the cost.

One of the big problems is you simply don't know HOW MUCH synthetic you're getting... legally, a manufacturer could put 1oz of synthetic base stock in a quart and call it "semi synthetic" or a "blend".

Either stick with a good dino at 2k intervals or go full synthetic at 3+ (I'm getting ready to mail a sample for testing of M1 V-Twin 20w50 at 6k).

Stay away from Motul Twin-Synd.. that crap had my clutch slipping in less than 1000 miles. Thought I smoked the clutch... replaced it, slipping was back almost immediately. Changed the oil, problem gone.
Thanks for reminding me Rich, I had sent off my Amsoil sample from the RT when I put the bike away last fall but hadn't heard back. Just bugged them and they're sending it to me, so will post to your analysis thread.
 

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Patriot Guardian
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Cool... always looking forward to more info!
 

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jerkybear's Vulcan
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None of them.

Semi-synthetic is only semi-expensive and semi-protective.

You don't get the full benefits of a full synthetic, but you get nearly all of the cost.
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
 

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Patriot Guardian
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I think so... I hadn't posted to that thread in a while so I may have moved to another one, but my last change was in June, so who knows where it's buried!

Wear metals look good for 6k, but it's a boxer, not a V-Twin.
 

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Vulcan 800 Classic
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yea use full synthetic or conventional, semi is a waste. Im good run Amsoil this spring in my bike, and probly my stepdads bike, I dont know if hes gonna want to or not.
 

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Test Pilot
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Discussion Starter #17
As far as "energy conserving", due to the standards, you will not find ANY oil heavier than 10w30 with the "EC" donut.
Your are probably right. Here at my home Canadian Tire store, they have the 10w-40 Castrol GTX car engine oil without the energy conservative marked on the back...but the 10w-30's have the energy conservative additive, which I don't use of course.
I have used Castrol GTX 10w-40 dino oil ever since you recommended it to me before, and never had a problem, so I guess I'll be sticking with that on my new 1500 as well. I guess my buddy who uses the semi-synthetic was mis-informed, as so many of us are sometimes. Thanks once again for the heads up. I'll try to set him straight, but he's pretty impressed with using semi-synthetic for some reason. His money I guess. Wish you were closer, I'd buy ya a beer or 12 lol.
 

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900 LT
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1. you can mix synthetic and dino oils
2. you can switch between the 2 oils when ever you want (meaning once you use synthetic you dont have to stick with synthetic)
3. you can cross rotate the radial tires on your cage, they do not have to spin the same direction all the time.

who thinks up all these myths anyway?
 

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3. you can cross rotate the radial tires on your cage, they do not have to spin the same direction all the time.

who thinks up all these myths anyway?
Early years of the various products. Synthetics used to have issues with seals on high-mileage vehicles... you could not switch to synthetic "late in life" on the vehicle.

Because of the seal issues, switching back to dino would result in leaks.

Not 100% certain if the "fix" has been changes in the oil, or changes in the seal material, but you are correct, it is no longer an issue.


Early steel belted radials would "break a belt" (actually just separate the tread) if they were cross-rotated... but like synthetic oil, we're going back 20+ years on that. I don't believe it was an issue for glass or aramid belted radials.

However, for tires with directional tread, the only way to cross-rotate is to dismount the tires and remount them for the other side... gets a little expensive.
 

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honestly, if you dont go Full synthetic then dont even bother with semi-synth. Save your money and just use a good regular non synth oil.

chris
 
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