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My hat is made of tinfoil
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Most engines are set cold, a few hot.

The service manual will specify which is correct for your engine.
And as Jeff Saunders points out, just setting them 2 thousands loose is incorrect, and can be catastrophic.

If your going to set them incorrectly, why bother to set them at all.
 

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Super Moderator
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Most ebgines are set cold, a few hot.

The service manual will specify which is correct for your engine.
And as Jeff Saunders points out, just setting them 2 thousands loose is incorrect, and can be catastrophic.

If your going to set them incorrectly, why bother to set them at all.
I was wondering the same thing: I'm going thru 4-6 hrs of work just to deliberately do it wrong? Where's the logic in that?
 

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My hat is made of tinfoil
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I was wondering the same thing: I'm going thru 4-6 hrs of work just to deliberately do it wrong? Where's the logic in that?
Its simple, get the specs from the manufacturer, and set your valves to those specs.

A person just deciding on their own to set them tighter or looser is basically screwing themselves, nothing more.

If a range is given thats fairly wide, i generally adjust them about the middle of that range.

Did an engine yesterday that asked for intakes at 0.10 - 0.20 mm
and exhausts at 0.15 - 0.25 mm

I found 1 valve too loose and another too tight.

now all are right near the middle....shims are easy to swap. 8)
 

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Yeah, I did checked my FJR's last week. Intake .15-.22 mm & exhaust .18-.25 mm. 1 intake and 1 exhaust were a tad tighter than the rest but all were well within the manufacturer's designated specifications. It took 4 hrs of plastics/parts removal just to get the valve cover removed. I can't fathom why someone would go thru that kind of trouble just to muck it up intentionally.
 

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Obsessed by Z1's
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Each engine design is a little different as to how I would tackle clearance.

With many of the DOHC shimmed valves, the clearance will tighten with wear. SO on these, it's better to set on the wide side of the adjustment range.

For the Z1/KZ900/KZ1000/KZ1100 range, Kawasaki originally recommended 2-4 thou (0.05mm-0.10mm) and then revised this to 2-6 thou (0.05mm-0.15mm) when people were setting valves too tight and having the clearance disappear down to zero by the time the valves were checked again. I set as close to 4 thou and will always go wide rather than tight on the adjustment.

For engines with tappet adjusters over the valves, most of these engines will have the gaps widen with wear, so you'd want to set the clearances in the middle to tighter end of the range. At least with this style of adjustment you can get every valve set perfectly. Whereas with shims, the shim increments dictate and limit how close you can get them to one another.

All bets are off once you start changing out cams. Each manufacturer of cams will give their recommended adjustment range - and this can be very different from stock settings.
 

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dont know if this was mentioned already or not, but for anyone doing their own valves no a shim under bucket engine, be sure to hit the Camshaft timing section of your manual. Correct cam timing is critical to any 4-stroke engine. a difference of even 1 tooth can cause a huge loss of performance, or even a no start condition. Ninja's are the least forgiving, as any error will most likely wind up in Piston-Valve contact.

The only reason i post this is because i saw a CBR at work, where the owner performed his own valve adjustments and is now attempting to save the head. just follow all procedures in your service manual, and everything will come out good.
 

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I was checking the valves on my 1980 KZ1000 with 13,000 miles and only one was out of spec. It is so tight that the bucket wont even turn. I looked at the shim and it has an 85 on it. What do I need to do? Thanks
 

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Eddie Lawson is God!
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Discussion Starter #68
Remove the shim. Measure thickness of valve shim using outside micrometer. Put in a shim .010 of an inch thinner and measure clearance again. The bucket should spin. You WILL have valve clearance. Measure clearance. Replace shim until you have .006 inch lash.

Now this is the important part. After you put the bike together, administer a CAREFUL beating and recheck valves in 500 miles.
 

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If your bike has only13,000 miles on it, valve clearance should be checked per the manual. It's best to shim on the high side of the tolerence limits, if possible, but don't go over the limits. This way the settings will hold longer. Once the engine gets 70 or so thousand miles it will usually not require as many( or any) as it did during break-in. I did not do this BUT while I worked for Kawasaki in the late 70's one of my trainees left a rag in the cam chain tunnel on a KZ650, put it back together, and attempted to start it. I wasn't there when he did it then he got training on how to do a complete valve job on the same bike. All valves were bent, all guides cracked but we got it fixed. Always double check, re-check by hand the timing and cam chain marks, etc. and properly torque everything and don't get in a hurry. If you say you think you got it right, your wrong. Know you have it right.
 

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My hat is made of tinfoil
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I adjust my valves by braille .

With a large hammer .

every February 29th

whether they need it or not .

:toetap:
Same here except I find the Large hammer hard to get in there, so I just use the medium sized one.
Besides a 32 ounce hammer is enough as long as you swing hard.
But at your age I guess its difficult to swing it that hard anymore.
 

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My hat is made of tinfoil
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I was checking the valves on my 1980 KZ1000 with 13,000 miles and only one was out of spec. It is so tight that the bucket wont even turn. I looked at the shim and it has an 85 on it. What do I need to do? Thanks
If its so tight you cannot get a feeler gauge in there at all, try a few sizes thinner shim, and recheck the clearance.
Its going to be hard to know how much thinner to use, if you cannot get a measurement at all first.
I have seen that before on customers bikes, and i just start at about 3 or 4 sizes down, and pretend that valve is now being checked the first time.


TIP : once you get the neww shim in there and the cams back in place etc. turn the motor over a few revolutions with a ratchet before rechecking the clearance.
Just bolting it back together and not moving it, can give very inaccurate readings.
 

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Thanks for the help. i got the shim changed out and alls well. Amazing the difference one cylinder makes in the running.
 

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Welp my 2000 800 drifter now has 36K miles on it... I checked the valves at 28K I want to check them again and likely adjust them.

its better to adjust the shims to the small side of the lash right... like if the tolerance is .08 - .13mm I should make it .08mm right? Cause as the shim wears out wont it naturally get larger?

I gotta order a shim kit.

I got 36K miles and I feel like the bike should have more go.

I am hoping it is valves - or maybe its my fat belly.

kenny
 

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My hat is made of tinfoil
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Hi Kenny, well you would think thats how it works, but usually, not always they get tighter.
The valves themselves tend to pound into the valve seats inside the head, and make it tighter.
Yes, exceptions do exist, but this is the generally rule.
I prefer to set them towards the middle of the specs.
Some like to set them towards the loose end of the specs.

If I have valves that should be say 0.15 mm to 0.25 mm in spec.
I like mine in the area of 0.20 mm.
Some prefer them towards the 0.25 mm area.

Anything withing spec is really okay, but do remember they will get tighter, not looser 99 % of the time.
 

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thanks, I think i will go with the middle of the spec, cant go wrong that way....

At 25k they were fine, i got 36k now and want to check um, I drive the bike very hard.

kenny
 

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Obfuscation Engineer
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Same here except I find the Large hammer hard to get in there, so I just use the medium sized one.
Besides a 32 ounce hammer is enough as long as you swing hard.
But at your age I guess its difficult to swing it that hard anymore.
if I have to swing harder than that ....
 

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I have a 2005 800 Vulcan Classic with 30,000 miles. I have started hearing what sounds like marbles bouncing around at my right footpeg area. I am thinking this is the crankcase. The noise does go away. Any ideas what this could be?
 

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I have a 2005 800 Vulcan Classic with 30,000 miles. I have started hearing what sounds like marbles bouncing around at my right footpeg area. I am thinking this is the crankcase. The noise does go away. Any ideas what this could be?
possibly engine ping or detonation, watch out for that..... Try running super just to see if it goes away

kenny
 
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