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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is there a once stop shop for all these items.

To perform this modification, buy the following:

12 ga. wire
18 ga. wire
soldering iron and light duty rosin core solder
heat shrink wrap (3/16”)
standard automotive relay (four or five pin)
standard relay pigtail
inline fuse holder rated for 30A
pack of 10A (inline type) fuses
press-in male connector (see the dual-outlet coil connector over your valve cover)
crimp on female lug connectors for 18A wire and 12A wire
cable ties

I looked at partsexpress and purchased the standard automotive relay & pigtail.

I assume I can get the remaining items at an automotive store?

I can't figure out what these two items are:

press-in male connector (see the dual-outlet coil connector over your valve cover)

crimp on female lug connectors for 18A wire and 12A wire

Any links or pics?

I'm hoping this will help those **** sooty, fouled plugs I keep getting. That and a new set of Denso's for my 77 KZ1000.

Meter measures about 8 at the coil.

Battery was fully charged.

The carbs have recently been jetted, cleaned.

Valves adjusted.

New points/condensers.

Running a hotter NKG plug. Runs ok for about 100 miles then puff the magic dragon appears and I have to limp home.

Thought I would try this procedure first before going with a DYNA.
 

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Sounds like you need to do some more carb tuning if you are getting sooty, fouled plugs.If they are black and sooty you are running rich and some jetting still needs to be done.
 

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If you are only gettin 8 volts then yes you need to do the repower. You can get most all that stuff at your auto parts. I had everything but the relay and harness. This will take care of those hard to start problems and black sooty plugs also. Especially if you have done the maintenance issues already. The connectors are the bullet shaped male and female connectors that fit motorcycles and they are at the local auto parts.
wiredgeorge motorcycle carburetors - Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Carburetor Sales, Rebuilding and Restoration - Repowering Ignition Coils To Get Full POWER!
 

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I added a link to my above post as requested by above poster for picture. I apologize if the advertisement is a no-no on this board. I did try and copy and paste just the picture, but it wouldn't let me do just that. This link is for the Wiredgeorge repowering coil diagram and is an asset to any motorcylce forum for vintage bikes which most all have this problem.
 

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Vintage bike addict
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What bike? Electronic ignition requires only a wire and inline fuse to repower the coils. No relay needed.
 

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Navy Vet Search & Rescue
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What bike? Electronic ignition requires only a wire and inline fuse to repower the coils. No relay needed.
Yes but if you do it that way you either don't have the kill switch in the loop or you have all the connectors leading up to the kill switch still in the loop that powers the coils don't you?
 

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itching to ride
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I just disconnected my wires and sprayed contact cleaner and put them back together and am getting 12+ volts. Of course I did not check the before voltage just thought it a good idea to clean up the connections. So if this mod cleans up the weak link in the connections why not just clean those instead? A resistor does not add any power. I am missing something here but am sure Mike, or someone else, will show me the error of my thinking.
 

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The relay doesn't add any more voltage. The original hot wire is the trigger for the relay. The relay outgoing is connected to the positive side of the starter solenoid and sees direct battery voltage which is where you get correct voltage from. This way with the original wire yellow and red as the trigger everything works thru kill switch and key switch.
 

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So you are bypassing the relay? That the whole purpose of the mod? If so then I can see why one would do it. I too prefer the simple approach.

Never mind. By relay I see you meant resistor.
He meant relay. The purpose is to bypass all the old factory harness and old connectors and deliver full battery voltage to the coils. If you are already getting full battery voltage to the coils while its running, then you are ok with what you have.
 

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Not bypassing relay, adding a relay where there was not one before. Just follow the wiring schematic if you have an older bike with less than 12 volts to the coils. The extra hot wire from the solenoid gives true battery voltage.
 

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Vintage bike addict
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Yes but if you do it that way you either don't have the kill switch in the loop or you have all the connectors leading up to the kill switch still in the loop that powers the coils don't you?
All the kill and safety switches still function as normal the only change is the supply voltage to the coil. you just disconnect the coils from the harness and tape it off then run a wire from the positive battery terminal at the solenoid to the coils. No voltage flows until the bike is started.
 

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He meant relay. The purpose is to bypass all the old factory harness and old connectors and deliver full battery voltage to the coils. If you are already getting full battery voltage to the coils while its running, then you are ok with what you have.
No I checked it without it running. So I am supposed to check with it running? I do not need this mod because my bike's coil voltage only goes through the ignition switch and kill switch and their connectors before making its way to the coils anyway so running a relay would just add another link in the chain. And there is a 30 amp fuse in there too.

I don't know what I was thinking about a resistor. I guess because when I did a coil mod years ago with automotive coils I had to use a resistor.
 

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All the kill and safety switches still function as normal the only change is the supply voltage to the coil. you just disconnect the coils from the harness and tape it off then run a wire from the positive battery terminal at the solenoid to the coils. No voltage flows until the bike is started.
I don't see how this is possible but maybe your bikes are wired differently than mine. For my bike ( The + voltage to the coils comes from the wiring harness > ignition switch > kill switch > + side of coils.) If you remove the existing + wire to the coils and add a straight connection from the + terminal of the solenoid to the + coil you have eliminated the kill switch. The - side of the coils are controlled by the igniter but this does not flow through the kill switch, so how is the kill switch going to be able to stop the engine?
 

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I just disconnected my wires and sprayed contact cleaner and put them back together and am getting 12+ volts. Of course I did not check the before voltage just thought it a good idea to clean up the connections. So if this mod cleans up the weak link in the connections why not just clean those instead? A resistor does not add any power. I am missing something here but am sure Mike, or someone else, will show me the error of my thinking.
If you trace down the complete circuit of the + voltage from the time it leaves the battery until the time it reaches the the coils, you will find a multitude of connectors involved to accomplish this. As each connector gets dirty/corroded/tarnished with age over the years it builds up resistance in the circuit. This resistance can and will drop several volts of power if it is bad enough. While cleaning the connectors should solve this issue, it is very difficult if not near impossible to clean the inside of the female end of a bullit connector. When I stripped my bike to the frame to have it powder coated, I went through every connector in my wiring harness. I used scotchbrite, sandpaper, small wire brushes, and spray contact cleaner on them. I even used dielectric grease on all of them to prevent future problems. At the end of this extensive cleaning, my battery voltage was 12.4 while my voltage as it exited the kill switch (which normally would connect to the coil) was 11.2v. So even with all the cleaning I did, I still couldn't get full battery voltage to the coil inputs. With the mod installed I only have 4 connection points between the battery and the coil, all connections are new and clean and I get the full 12.4v at the coils now. I paid $120 for a set of Dyna coils that are supposed to deliver a 50% increase in the spark voltage and I want to get every thing they are capable of so I'll stick with the mod until someone comes up with a better way to clean all those connectors.
 

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The original wiring is used to energize the relay. When the relay is energized it closes contacts in the relay & sends +12 volts from the starter to the coils. If the key or kill switch is turned off then the relay contacts open, the coils no longer get 12 volts & the engine dies.
 

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itching to ride
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If you trace down the complete circuit of the + voltage from the time it leaves the battery until the time it reaches the the coils, you will find a multitude of connectors involved to accomplish this. As each connector gets dirty/corroded/tarnished with age over the years it builds up resistance in the circuit. This resistance can and will drop several volts of power if it is bad enough. While cleaning the connectors should solve this issue, it is very difficult if not near impossible to clean the inside of the female end of a bullit connector. When I stripped my bike to the frame to have it powder coated, I went through every connector in my wiring harness. I used scotchbrite, sandpaper, small wire brushes, and spray contact cleaner on them. I even used dielectric grease on all of them to prevent future problems. At the end of this extensive cleaning, my battery voltage was 12.4 while my voltage as it exited the kill switch (which normally would connect to the coil) was 11.2v. So even with all the cleaning I did, I still couldn't get full battery voltage to the coil inputs. With the mod installed I only have 4 connection points between the battery and the coil, all connections are new and clean and I get the full 12.4v at the coils now. I paid $120 for a set of Dyna coils that are supposed to deliver a 50% increase in the spark voltage and I want to get every thing they are capable of so I'll stick with the mod until someone comes up with a better way to clean all those connectors.
I knew you would come through.

I checked my battery voltage and got 12.7 and checked at the coils and got just over 12 so I left it be. I have no problem with the firing but still have a phantom air leak I have not been able to eradicate so I am getting new carb boots from Z1. I tried sealing them but there is not much room to work so I will take the smart way out. Wife probably will not like me spending another 50 bucks on the bike but she does not have to know how much they cost. I have not tallied up all the receipts but think I am still under $500 total for the bike.
That does not include my labor or gas to drive back and forth to my brother's shop.
 
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