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Discussion Starter #1
My bike rolls forward when I'm in 1st gear and have the clutch disengaged. Because of this, it won't let me push it up to neutral. I tried adjusting the cable by the clutch itself, and adjusting the nuts down by the tranny. I've tried it all the way out, all the way in, and everything in between, but no adjustment is working for me!! The bike keeps wanting to roll forward.

BTW, it's a 90' kawa zr550.

Any help would be great.


Cheers,
:hohoho:
Jason
 

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Looks like you'll have to remove all the clutch-plates m8 and give them a proper clean, dry and re-oil. Good chance to check they are all within specs too.
 

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What type and weight of oil are you using? Usually 10W40 works for most weather situations unless you're in a hot environment like Arizona or Texas and then 20W50 should work.

Here's some oil information:

Engine oil : The commercial grade oils are clearly superior to the mass market oils. For the best protection in your bike or car, use Shell Rotella Synthetic, available at Wal-Mart in blue containers . For the best petroleum oil you can buy, get Shell Rotella T, Mobil Delvac 1300, or Chevron Delo 400, available at any auto parts store. On the back of most oil cans is a circular stamp with the certification. Avoid oils that say "energy conserving" in the bottom half of the donut. These oils contain friction modifier additives that could cause clutch slipping over time. All XXw-20 and XXw-30 oils are energy conserving, and should not be used in your motorcycle. Don't buy any oil additives like STP or Slick-50. Here's several items about Oil justifying these conclusions.

The Recommended Synthetic Oils
Shell Rotella Synthetic
5w-40 Delvac 1 Synthetic
5w-40 Mobil-1 SUV/Truck Synthetic
5w-40 AMSOil AMF Synthetic
10w-40 Golden Spectro Synthetic
10w-50 Motul 5100 Synthetic
10w-40 Mobil-1 Synthetic
15w-50 Mobil-1 MX4T Synthetic

The best synthetics are: (in no particular order)

Shell Rotella-T Synthetic 5w-40 (blue container, not white), gallon at Wal-Mart.
Mobil Delvac-1 5w-40 (grey container, not black), gallon at Petro stations, gallon at Farm and Fleet.
Mobil-1 SUV 5w-40, qt anywhere.
AMSOil AMF 10w-40 synthetic motorcycle oil, about qt.
Golden Spectro Supreme, (no price).
Motul 5100 Ester, (no price).


Like the article mentioned, if you're using oil that is designed for a car with friction modifiers in it, it's not compatable with the wet plate clutches of most motorcycles.

The way I adjust the clutch cable on my 82 GPz1100 B2 is to

1.Open up the access panel for the clutch cable mechanism.

2.Shorten up the cable using the mid way adjuster and the one on the clutch lever adjuster.

3.Loosen up the lock nut on the slotted screw of the adjuster.

4.Turn the adjuster screw to the right(clockwise) until it becomes hard to turn.

5.Turn the adjuster to the left(counterclockwise) 1/4 turn and tighten the lock nut.

6.Turn the cable adjusters(mid way and at the handlebar) so 2-3 MM play is at the clutch lever.

7. Re-install the adjustment mechanism's cover, and tighten up the cable adjuster nuts.

8. Start the engine and see if shifting is improved.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks Mfolks, good stuff man.

Not sure what kind of oil the previous owner put in it. I just got the bike a couple months back, they said they changed it last November. I've put probably 400 miles on the bike since I bought it, I doubt the other owner rode it much in the winter time here in the northeast.

I'm really new to bikes, is the engine oil used for the tranny as well? Is that why you're asking about the oil I'm using?
 

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Most of the 80's and maybe 90's Kawasaki's share the oil with the engine and transmission. Due to the shearing action of the gears, recommended oil change is 3000 miles(or less depending on how hard the bike was driven and the evironment like I mentioned).
 

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There is a slew of stuck clutches here...

Heat the engine and the oil up in neutral, once you fish it. Rock the bike to fish neutral holding the clutch lever in. After the oil gets hot shut the engine down and with a helper rock the bike still holding the clutch lever IN.

When the clutch breaks free, it will be time to re-do that clutch adjustment.

If you can put it back close to where it was ... With a cable operated clutch you have 2 places for geting free play. MFolk's method is correct.

To get that right, it is best to have the cable off the camming device, or atleast make sure a slight finger touch will have free play at the camming device.

Then you may adjust the cable for it's own free play.

The problem is your friction plates are stuck to the steel driving plates.

This is very common after longer storage.. Nothing is broken.
 
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