ZX600R 2001, standard suspension settings
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Simmo
I have a 2000 ZX6R, I dont know the difference between the ZX600R and ZX6R but here in Australia there is almost no difference between the 2000 ZX6R and the 2001 ZX6R.
So here are the standard settings for the ZX6R as described in my owners manual, I hope they help:
Front forks:
Spring Preload 14mm (0.6") from top of adjuster
Rebound Damping Force Adjuster 7th click from fully turned in position
Compression Damping Force Adjuster 9th click from fully turned in position
* Spring preloadadjuster requires a wrench (spanner) for adjustment, turn the 'blue' nut for adjustment from 5mm - 20mm measured from top of blue nut to the lower nut on the triple clamp
* Rebound can be adjusted using a screw driver to move the 'screw' type looking adjuster on top of the front fork
* Compression can be adjusted with a screw driver, the adjuster is located at the bottom trailing edge of the front forks (it looks the same as the rebound adjuster)
Rear Suspension:
Rebound Damping Force 10th click from fully turned in position
Compression Dampin Force 10th click form fully turned in position
Spring Preload - my ZX6R owners manual says for adjustment "have it adjusted by your Kawasaki authorized dealer" It can be adjusted but I have not adjusted mine and I am unsure of how to do it. It can be that hard. Check out www.kawiforums.com post your question there, one of the members there might be able to help.
* Rebound adjuster can be found right below the rear suspension spring
* Compression adjuster can be found at the top of the spring on the bottom of the reservoir
Both use a screw driver for adjustment just like the front forks.
Good Luck
I have a 2000 ZX6R, I dont know the difference between the ZX600R and ZX6R but here in Australia there is almost no difference between the 2000 ZX6R and the 2001 ZX6R.
So here are the standard settings for the ZX6R as described in my owners manual, I hope they help:
Front forks:
Spring Preload 14mm (0.6") from top of adjuster
Rebound Damping Force Adjuster 7th click from fully turned in position
Compression Damping Force Adjuster 9th click from fully turned in position
* Spring preloadadjuster requires a wrench (spanner) for adjustment, turn the 'blue' nut for adjustment from 5mm - 20mm measured from top of blue nut to the lower nut on the triple clamp
* Rebound can be adjusted using a screw driver to move the 'screw' type looking adjuster on top of the front fork
* Compression can be adjusted with a screw driver, the adjuster is located at the bottom trailing edge of the front forks (it looks the same as the rebound adjuster)
Rear Suspension:
Rebound Damping Force 10th click from fully turned in position
Compression Dampin Force 10th click form fully turned in position
Spring Preload - my ZX6R owners manual says for adjustment "have it adjusted by your Kawasaki authorized dealer" It can be adjusted but I have not adjusted mine and I am unsure of how to do it. It can be that hard. Check out www.kawiforums.com post your question there, one of the members there might be able to help.
* Rebound adjuster can be found right below the rear suspension spring
* Compression adjuster can be found at the top of the spring on the bottom of the reservoir
Both use a screw driver for adjustment just like the front forks.
Good Luck
standard suspension settings
Post your question hear these guys may be able to help you.
Main Site. http://www.thekwaksownersclub.co.uk/frameset.html
Forum. http://www.thekwaksownersclub.co.uk/wwwboard/index.html
Post your question hear these guys may be able to help you.
Main Site. http://www.thekwaksownersclub.co.uk/frameset.html
Forum. http://www.thekwaksownersclub.co.uk/wwwboard/index.html
reply
2001 Kawasaki ZX-6R
Shock: I set the sag on this bike to 29mm, and that left 8mm of free sag. This shock is a Kayaba unit. The stock spring is of an acceptable rate to race with for the average guy (weighing 150-190 pounds). There was only 2mm of stiction, which is very good. It has a relatively convenient ride height adjuster, although expert riders find the stock swingarm angle to be so flat that all of the ride height adjuster is not enough. The stock rebound was lacking and I had to set it 3-clicks out. The stock compression adjuster had a nice range of adjustment, and I set it at 8-out, and it still felt quite firm. This is the best working stock shock on the bikes tested here. Unfortunately, the aluminum preload collars are too thin, and they gall and lock to the aluminum shock body easily. If you spend the money to have this shock upgraded, and the collars lock, you will have lost your investment. It is for this reason, and the lack of range of ride height adjustment, that this shock is at least a 50 percent candidate for replacement.
Forks: I set the fork sag to 35mm and found 24mm of free sag. The ZX-6R forks are made by Kayaba, and have the firmest springs of all of the bikes tested. They had 7mm of stiction which is normal. At 46mm, they are the beefiest conventional unit made. They have all-aluminum internals with a more conventional rebuildable piston/shim combination on rebound. They have the same dowel-type rebound needle as the YZF-R6 and the result is the same classic example of poor low-speed and high-speed balance. If you turn the rebound screw in far enough to get low-speed control, then there is so much high-speed rebound that the fork "packs down". If you set the screw to have quick high-speed response, then there is no low-speed control at all. The stock compression piston, although able to pass substantially more oil on sharp hits than the same part on the YZF-R6, is still restricted by small port diameter, resulting in high-speed chatter. We set the rebound adjuster to 7-clicks out, and the compression adjuster to 8-clicks out. These forks are only slightly more expensive to upgrade than the forks on a GSX-R.
2001 Kawasaki ZX-6R
Shock: I set the sag on this bike to 29mm, and that left 8mm of free sag. This shock is a Kayaba unit. The stock spring is of an acceptable rate to race with for the average guy (weighing 150-190 pounds). There was only 2mm of stiction, which is very good. It has a relatively convenient ride height adjuster, although expert riders find the stock swingarm angle to be so flat that all of the ride height adjuster is not enough. The stock rebound was lacking and I had to set it 3-clicks out. The stock compression adjuster had a nice range of adjustment, and I set it at 8-out, and it still felt quite firm. This is the best working stock shock on the bikes tested here. Unfortunately, the aluminum preload collars are too thin, and they gall and lock to the aluminum shock body easily. If you spend the money to have this shock upgraded, and the collars lock, you will have lost your investment. It is for this reason, and the lack of range of ride height adjustment, that this shock is at least a 50 percent candidate for replacement.
Forks: I set the fork sag to 35mm and found 24mm of free sag. The ZX-6R forks are made by Kayaba, and have the firmest springs of all of the bikes tested. They had 7mm of stiction which is normal. At 46mm, they are the beefiest conventional unit made. They have all-aluminum internals with a more conventional rebuildable piston/shim combination on rebound. They have the same dowel-type rebound needle as the YZF-R6 and the result is the same classic example of poor low-speed and high-speed balance. If you turn the rebound screw in far enough to get low-speed control, then there is so much high-speed rebound that the fork "packs down". If you set the screw to have quick high-speed response, then there is no low-speed control at all. The stock compression piston, although able to pass substantially more oil on sharp hits than the same part on the YZF-R6, is still restricted by small port diameter, resulting in high-speed chatter. We set the rebound adjuster to 7-clicks out, and the compression adjuster to 8-clicks out. These forks are only slightly more expensive to upgrade than the forks on a GSX-R.
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