[Jacksdad63]

Hi, I'm going to do a service on my 2002 ZZR1200, its done 63k miles so I guess that is 'high mileage'.
I've bought a genuine Kawa oil filter (cost me £5.00, trade price..cheaper than the main pattern one!). For oil, I have gone for Petronas Syntium 3000E fully synthetic, 5W-40. Now, after reading the label fully, I've noticed it says "CoolTech" engine heat control...whatever that is.
Its a very high spec oil, for use in Porsche and Mercedes amongst others, but I'm now a little concerned about any issues with the bike clutch, has anyone used this oil? I've used 'car' fully synth oil many times without problems but this Petronas oil is new to me
Thanks, Mike

 

[GREENISBEST]

Stick with a good Grade Semi Synthetic Motorcycle Oil in 10/40 flavour.
Your Bike doesn't need some wizzy Fully Syn oil and the risk of clutch slip is to be avoided.
Some very good oil in the UK, Others are available but stay clear of Fully..
ROCK OIL
SILKOLENE
PUTOLINE
CASTROL

 

[Kawasakian]

Synethic Oil is the fluid gathered from natural gas extraction. It's really clean stuff with additives. These additives are what can scew up the clutch. I don't know why they charge so much for it. for a very long time, there was so much of it they didn't know what to do with it, so out came the big advertising game, and it has been hyped up, to make maximum profit. Any synthetic should be fine, but the clutch slippage is scary, didn't know about that. I have a Valvoline Synthetic i just purchased for my ZZR1200. It's taking me forever to get this on the road, I have major house work I am doing, a motorhome I am readying, and another bike I can ride whenever. Too much pressure, and a bike that's ready to go. Not enough time.

 

[9094]

Any oil, full synthetic or not, which has the MA/MA2 rating on it for wet clutch use.

 

[WFO-KZ]

As I understand it, the clutch slipping problem comes from the friction modifiers that are in some oils. If oil is too slippery it can affect a wet clutch. Cars have dry clutches and they benefit from very slippery (low friction) oils. Car oils also don't need to be engineered for the demands of a transmission where most bikes combine transmission and crankcase as one.

But lots of folks run car oil and claim no problems. It's a personal choice and I hope we don't start another oil war. Do your research and make whatever decision you think is right. I like to start my research with the owner's manual and branch out from there.

Also if your bike has flat tappets as in many V-Twins you need an oil with high ZDDP content.

 

[9094]

And keep in mind, motorcycle oil also has to protect the transmission, could mean extra additives, which automotive oils do not have to do and may not have.

Personally, I use Amsoil Motorcycle oils, have to look at it as cheap motor insurance.

 

[Kawasakian]

I've always used Valvoline in all of my vehicles. I've found when rebuilding these engines, the crankcase insides are like new clean, and have never had a clutch slippage issue. My 1983 GS750ESF(the 16" front tire, anti dive one), which I also towed a Velorex side car with for a few years, had the clutch last 40K miles. I think that's a long time for a clutch on a motorcycle.

The bike below is a spitting image of my bike. I even have the "Lockhart" lower fairings, which are impossible to find now. I have the lowers off now, as I am repainting them.

 

[Jacksdad63]

Today I got a reply from Petronas UK...Syntium 3000E is NOT suitable for use with wet clutch motors!
I did suspect the 'CoolTech' additive was the issue, just glad I double checked...the oil will go in my Renault Trafic turbo diesel so no problems: just need some bike specific engine oil now.

 

[Jacksdad63]

Today I returned the Petronas oil to Halfords and to save time/fuel costs I swappedit for the only oil in stock for the ZedZed, Castrol Power 1 Racing, 10W40 4T.
This cost me £36 for 4 litres which isn't too expensive: had I travelled to a different/cheaper shop I'd be burning diesel at £2.04 per LITRE....Halfords is 2.5 miles from my place!
Quality oil and a genuine filter for £41, done by myself, will need changing in 4k or 6 months. Genuine fuel filter was £12.50, that won't need changing again, and the K&N air filter just needs a wash every year or so. Spark plugs are like new, twin electrode NGK CR9EK so the standard CR9E ones I've got are good for next time.
Does anyone pay a mechanic/workshop to do their service work? How much would this 'filter service' cost? Be good to see what US v. UK prices are!

 

[GREENISBEST]

Castrol Power 1 Racing, 10W40 4T

Is a Fully Synthetic Oil.

 

[Jacksdad63]

Is a Fully Synthetic Oil.

It is indeed fully synthetic, nothing else in all my vehicles