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1994 kawasaki zx7 ninja

4.1K views 17 replies 4 participants last post by  StarGate  
#1 ·
i have a 1994 zx750L ninja had motor replaced with a 1995 zx7r. put new battery in, bike starts sounds real strong. when you ride it the bike will get about 4 blocks then shut off. you then restart it and it will ride a while longer. if you are going fast shifting between 1st and 2nd gear it will shut off more often then it would if you would stay in 1st. i was told the carbs were jetted it has a muzzy exhaust, fuel pump was replaced. the temperature gauge is not connected found the loose wire and had it working temporarily is this part of the problem if not do you have any idea why it shuts off but everytime it will restart and continue to ride? This bike is for sale on ebay and craigslistchicago.
 
#3 ·
i had the same problem with mine, i could not figure out what it was, it ended up being the rubber seals around the main jets, they were old and hard, and cracked, so they let more fuel in and flooded it, but once it stops you hit the starter and off it goes again, get the seals in your carby replaced and that should fix it.
 
#6 ·
needle

when you say the seals around the needle what do you mean i am a female not mechanically inclined and i dont quite understand. but thank you for coming through with the info it has troubled the mind of many mechanics who could not fix the problem they kept thinking it was the fuel pump or something like that. have you ever had a problem with the petcock valve?
 
#7 ·
ill send you a diagram if you like. whats your e mail address.
but around the needle, there is a float in the carby, and on that float is a needle, and as the fuel flows into the bowl, the float rises and the needle closes the hole the fuel comes in, so it doesnt fill anymore, and it regulates by the float going up and down, and where the needle sits its in a little shaft, and the shaft has a seal on it so that the fuel only flows through the needle hole, but if the seals are old and cracked, it will suck fuel past the needle when its already closed, and it will flow straight in to the carby and in to the engine, and slowly it will give your engine too much fuel, but if you rev it harder, you create more vacuume in the bowl, so it sucks more in and floods your engine faster, thats the reason fo it just dying while you ride.

no i have no idea what it is, im pulling the workshop manual out to see what it is.
 
#8 ·
thats what i assumed you meant by needle thank you for explaining it to me. the petcock valve is the fuel reserve dial that you turn my friend swears that is the problem he thinks its gone bad but it seems as though you have gone through the same thing i am going through so i am going to try your way. are these rubber seals expensive and how long would it take to change all of the ones you suggested.
 
#9 ·
the seals were about 20 cents australian.
and i was charged 2 hours labour.
not much.

yes i found out today what a pet **** valve is, i call it a fuel tap.
and if it was the fuel tap your bike wouldnt run at all. your bike is gettin to much fuel, not too little.

i have never heard it called a pet **** valve, where do you live??
 
#14 ·
star gate is right, they are o rings, but if you are going to get them to change them, get them to do a full carby overhaul. they can check the floats and the sync of the carbys aswell as put the kit through it, the kit contains all the seals o rings and stuff to bring it back to normal. give it ago and let me know how you go.
 
#15 ·
I bought this bike

It was the fuel pump. The wiring is all wrong and the fuel pump only kicked on when the starter was turning. Wiring the fuel pump up to acc (only on while bike is runing) has caused me to burn up 2 fuel pumps. Any sugestions on what is causing this? Grounded to frame or battery terminal does the same thing. Is there something that can make the alternater over charge? Would it effect the fuel pump if that was the case and nothing else? I have it set up on gravity feed with no pump at the moment. Also on the carb bank there are 2 plastic T's that are between carb 1-2 and 3-4 that look like they need a vacuum line or something and there are 4 vacuum line like conecters not part of the carb but just infront are these vacuum as well or just overflow? I have service manual bought and in the mail, going to check every wire after it gets here cause the last mechanic to work on that butchered the wiring. Anyone have a sugestion that i could check in the mean time?
 
#16 ·
Is there something that can make the alternater over charge? Would it effect the fuel pump if that was the case and nothing else? I have it set up on gravity feed with no pump at the moment. Also on the carb bank there are 2 plastic T's that are between carb 1-2 and 3-4 that look like they need a vacuum line or something and there are 4 vacuum line like conecters not part of the carb but just infront are these vacuum as well or just overflow?
The regulator controls the output of the charging system but it should be an over volt problem to the entire electrical system, not just the fuel pump.

Check to see if they are pulling a vacuum or not. If the open end of the T is a vacuum port, then it needs to be connected to something or capped.

Not sure about the carbs on your bike, but all the carbs I'm familiar with have the overflow connection at the bottom of the float bowl, if they have an overflow.
 
#17 ·
this bike is a mess but it runs great sometimes =)

I guess ill try hooking the T's up to vaccum there is nothing there at the moment, see if it runs better. How much dmg can i do to the bike if I ride it with out a fuel pump seems to get more then enough gas for citty streets and thats all I use it for (back and forth to work, about 1.3 miles). This if my first bike I guess it good one cause I will have an intimate knowlage of everything before it stops giving me problems. Oh and I think I need to check that part of the altinator cause on a dead battery everything was working great after the battery had a charge I could smell electrical burning from somewhere. At least the engine doesnt need to tore into. Have to stay positive.
 
#18 ·
Don't see how you could harm it by running it w/o the fuel pump as long as it gets enough fuel to run normal. Just have to make sure it's not running overly lean. Run it some and pull the plugs and check them to see if it's running lean.