My 2000 kawasaki has been starting fine, I was just out riding, parked it and now it won't start. My voltage is 12 turn key on its 7. Something. Push the start button everything g goes dead. I jump start it it runs take jumper off it dies. What could it be?
Dwmeeks
Sure sounds like you need a new battery. Voltage should never drop to 7 just because you turned on the key.
I put a new battery on it starts advance auto put their tester on it they say it needs a new stator so guess I'll have to see how long the new battery lasts to make sure
The best test for a bad stator I have run across is to find the connector for the wiring coming out of the stator, There should be 3 wires. Disconnect the connector and start the bike, use the idle adjustment to set the idle at 2000 rpm. Test the wires with a meter set on AC voltage. Wire A to B, then B to C, and finally C to A. All three readings should be with in 1 volt of each other. If one is higher or lower than the others it would mean a bad stator. Open or shorted windings. The idle adjustment will hold the RPM stable and the out put of the stator near the middle of the stators range. With the connector disconnected you are only testing the stator and nothing else. The bike will run off just the battery while doing this test.
The regulator will take the AC to DC and should regulate it to near 14V DC with no accessory load on. With your meter on the battery after you start the bike you can check the voltage at the battery at idle and with the RPM raised slightly. Too low and the battery will not charge, too high and it will damage the battery. At idle with the cooling fans running the stator may not be able to keep up with the current draw and the voltage will drop to near or below 12V until the RPM is brought up.
With the 2 test above you will not have to wait for the bike to leave you stranded along the road to find out if the stator or regulator are bad.
The regulator will take the AC to DC and should regulate it to near 14V DC with no accessory load on. With your meter on the battery after you start the bike you can check the voltage at the battery at idle and with the RPM raised slightly. Too low and the battery will not charge, too high and it will damage the battery. At idle with the cooling fans running the stator may not be able to keep up with the current draw and the voltage will drop to near or below 12V until the RPM is brought up.
With the 2 test above you will not have to wait for the bike to leave you stranded along the road to find out if the stator or regulator are bad.
Also do the stator resistance checks with it unplugged and not running., same wire combos to each other as well as each wire to ground. should be open to ground and approx 0.4 ohms or so between legs.
It can also be the connector between the stator and rectifier/regulator, They do get hot and melt. cut it out and solder/heatshrink if any signs of being hot.
It can also be the connector between the stator and rectifier/regulator, They do get hot and melt. cut it out and solder/heatshrink if any signs of being hot.
Plug looked good on the regulator, if I unplug it while running you can hear the idle go down just a bit
9094 tests are the ones in the maintenance manual and are good to do. The resistance lead to lead can be hard to determine if it is good or bad, unless the stator has an open wire. With a stator winding shorted to itself the change in resistance is so low you need to have a good meter to detect it. AC voltage checks will probably find it. Use the resistance checks to confirm. The difference in values is more telling than the actual reading. The quality of the meter can effect the readings. Of course a short to ground is a bad stator.
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