If you changed the needle and seat and the fuel still flows out the overflow, try turning the pet **** halfway and see if it slows the rate of fuel down??? It's what I would try.

 

The seat is not replaceable like most decent carburetors. As for the petcock, I had rebuilt it with new rubbers It was a headache too.

I have probably lost 20 gallons of gasoline over a two year period of trying to get this carb to work right and everytime it seems like its fixed, it will start dripping out of the overflow tubing again. The petcock does work right, It will shut off when you turn it off/ A moose rebuild kit is $15.99/ just the kaw float needle is $24 to $32 depending on which kaw dealer. the o ring for the float bowl is another $8 and how they swell too large to fit the groove is beyond me. Tack on $7 shipping and these parts are just too much. I have priced parts for other ATV's and they are ludicrous too. It seems like the only way to go is a brand new atv with and extended warranty, then dump it 3 years later.
You would think after making Bayous from 1986 to 2003, Kaw would have found a solution. This is a fire hazard and should have been a government forced recall.

 

Hello Antiqucycle,,,,

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Has anybody switched to a 32mm Mikuni Carb and what jetting did you use. I really think the Keihin is a poor design especially because the seat cannot be changed.
this problem has been going on for 3 years and I am frustrated. I get the impression this problem is very common on the 300 bayous.

Did you ever find a Mikuni Carb to replace the CVK32? If so, can you please post the Mikuni part number?????

And, would you happen to have a schematic and/or list of instructions showing how to remove the Keihin CVK32 from the Bayou 300,,,,, that is, showing how to remove just the carb without removing the throttle and choke cables from the handle bars?

I feel the same way about the Keihin CVK32 carb both from the engineering aspect as well as Carb and Part Costs. My ATV is an older 1988 Kawasaki Bayou 300 KLF300-A1. The performance of the Keihin Carb has always been cold natured even when new. The choke has always been required to some extent until the engine is fully warmed up. The older it became the more the choke had to be applied. With normal carb maintenence of clean-outs and rebuilds over the years it never could be set to perform without being cold natured. It is now so old it is worn out. It will start and idle fine but requires full choke to do even this. And, it floods and stalls if throttle is cracked open even with feathering or just a little at a time, and it does not matter if the engine is warm. And, I have seen other reports describing this behavior about the cold nature and other problems such as yours that are related to the CVK32.

THANKS for your time, help, and advice!!!

Jerry

 

Never solved the problems with the stupidly designed Keihin Carb Remember Honda owns Keihin. And That Kawasaki wants to sell me a new one for a grossly overpriced $369 so I get discouraged enough to buy a new ATV.
As for finding a mikuni 32 mm VM carb, thats simple(and cheap) but I have no clue where to start with jetting the carb correctly. And it will require a different throttle cable to fit. which may mean switching to a twist throttle instead of the thumb model.
The flaws in the design of the Keihin are the vacuum slide, with rubber that ages quickly, so its an expensive replacement. and the fixed float needle jet that cannot be replaced. The needle can be changed but Kaw wants $33. I have bought two Moose Carb kits and the needles just do not work right, like their size is just not quite right.
I have gotten the float bowl to quit leaking and overflowing but now, the float needle seems to stick so the carb bowl will fill with gas, the atv starts and runs perfect for two minutes and dies apparantly because the float needle is not allowing gas into the bowl. So you ride it for two minutes, then sit and wait 2 minutes and it restarts and runs for two more minutes.
There are times though, once it warmed up, I have run it all over the woods with no problem hauling deer out.

But, with the variety of problems and inconsitent problems, like overflowing gas, not enough gas in the bowl, the atv is a genuine pain.

I have also been told to change the pilot jet to one size larger, a 40 size. but never found one in Kaw shop on the shelf.

These CVk carbs were put on a lot of motorcycles, hondas and yamahas and they do run ok for several years then turn into a constant pain in the a...

As for the choke, I do use it to start when cold but it seems like I do not need it after it warms up.

The carb is easy to get off, disconnect the gas line, the vent line, do disconnect the throttle cable at the carb take the air cleaner hose off and loosen the clamp on the intake hose, slide the carb out the left side and unscrew the choke cable. Then you can start wild guessing what might solve the problem.
Highly recommend you buy a Clymer Bayou manual off ebay for $25.

 

Hello Antiqucycle ,,,,,


Thanks for your comments,,,,,, This helps!!!

And, sorry it took so long to reply,,,,,,I thought I would get Notification to my normal Email Inbox that there was a REPLY to my message in the Forum,,,,If there is a way in the Forum OPTIONS/PREFERENCES to force this notification I could not find it. Never got that Notification so I decided to take a look in the forum. I then saw your response,,,,,and,,,,,,

THANKS for your time, help, and advise,,,,,,

Jerry

 

has anyone experianced a klf 400 bogging down and back firing through the exhaust? idles fine but once you revv it up it bogs out and throws flamwes and black smoke out of the exhaust help please!!!!!!!!!!!

cam timing is spot on and the carb is fairly new, oh and its had a brand new kawasaki cdi unit!

 

Would you guys know what size carburetor is used on a 1988 Bayou 220? I had a mikuni carb on it and I can't find out what size it is. V38 is stamped on the side but that hasn't helped me. I measured the engine side of the carb and got 38mm and apparently thats way too big. I NEED HELP

 

nevermind guys, i found this pdf that helped me

http://www.sudco.com/vol33/49.pdf

 

my 86 bayou had the same problem with fuel comeing out of hose i to also replaced float and needle but no luck thats when i took it all apart and had it chemical boiled at the local machine shop put the original float and needle in and fuel leak gone and have not had no further concerns with it and yes these are cold weather sensitive but there is way to beat this 110 octane raceing fuel mixed 50/50 with 93 octane mine starts right up and 1 minute later 1 can full bore it and ride all day with no hick ups hope this helps out good luck

 

Very interesting about taking it to a machine shop and having it boiled out.
I have not solved the problem. Had it running in September and it seemed to be ok. In Novemeber it was back to erratic, like run for 2 minutes, then run out of gas like the float needle stayed closed. Wait two minutes, it would start and run for another two minutes.
Showed the carb to a very competent mechanic and ex bike racer and he could not find any problem. His best guess was the float itself was hanging up on something in the bowl that could not be seen with the bowl on.

Realize, I have both problems, the float needle sticks closed at times and and other times does not close so the carb bowl over flows. despite a brand new float, 4 new float needles, and spot less cleaning, along with a magnifying glasses looking for a tiny nick.

I just acquired a 34 MM CVK carb off a 250 Mojave. Surprisingly, the intake manifold for the larger carb and my bayous are the exact same part number. If this stinking weather ever gets a little warmer, I am going to simply put the 34mm carb on since it matches up and try it. If it does not run right, I will install a carb kit with the right size jets for the bayou.
I just cant bring myself to pay Kawasaki $360 for a new carb and I would bet every bayou carb sold on ebay has similar problems so that would be a waste of $150 or so. I have owned over 100 motorcycles, mostly junkers, and always was able to solve carb problems eventually. since virtually all of them had replaceable seats for the float needle.

One other thing I attempted was acquiring a Keihin non vacuum carb, 32mm off a Honda XL350. the problem with it is matching a throttle cable, so I would need to install a twist throttle with XL cable instead of the thumb throttle with kaw cable. that keihin also has a non changeable seat. That carb has a plastic connection for the fuel line and its broken. Well I go to a Honda shop and that plastic fuel connection is not sold separately. What a joke.

 

yes boiling it out is good deep cleans i am ase certified master tech and i have fixed many small carbs for four wheelers etc. it never fails for me and i hope the weather gets better to it getting colder while ridein at night and i hope that 250 mojave carb does the trick for you let me know if it does for just incase mine ever acts up again can only repair them so many times

 

try to leave the gas cap loose while running and seee if it dies out my be vapor lock in the tank causeing it to die out if it doesnt die out put the cap back on tight and see if dies that will tell ya if u have a bad cap or breather line let me know if this helps out i have a klf 300 bayou a1 my self and i tell u what im impressed by the low end torqe of this machine and i finally got all the bugs out they say you have to have patients i guess to work on these things,i do it as a hobby its easier than workin on newer cars i tell ya that much lol and mine did the same thing dies out wait a few or run full choke but had no power so i checked the fuel and heard that vacume sound thats when it hit me like a ton of bricks vapor lock! i have a gas cap that has a lever that say on/off and it was bad so i drill a hole in it and put a vac connector in the hole and ran a hose off it down in front of the tank works greatand i put a rear axle breather of a truck on the end of the hose to prevent dirt and water gettin up in the hose and then to the tank i cheated kawasaki out of money for a new cap oh darn lolhopes this helps out let me know -cory-

 

Thanks for the suggestion on the gas cap but thats not the problem. I had thought of that long ago, and ran it with the cap off, and then with another gas cap off a suzuki tank that matched. the gas flows well. I would to note I have had the tank off numerous times, its clean as whistle inside, so is the petcock. Still been too cold to work outside without getting frustrated with frozen fingers.

 

If the float needle is hanging up in the seat it is likely you have a wear ridge in the seat that is grabbing the needle. When it gets hot the ring expands and allows the needle to drop.

The Kaw fix is to replace the carb body or the entire carb. My fix is to find a small "nail set" punch that will just fit snugly in the hole in the seat, and then take a very small dab of machinist's diamond paste and coat the end of the punch and then carefully give it about three turns to burnish the seat and remove that wear ring. Then blow out the carb fuel inlet and the seat with a bit of starting fluid.

Install a new Viton tipped float needle, the float needle to float clip, adjust the float, and it will be good to go for another few years.

 

well if you have a metal tank yuo may still have rust in side that u can not see like on the upper part of the tank i had this problem with mine allways rebulid carb and claening it finally i got fed up and deciced to investicgate y this is dirty all the time so i took a fuel sample in a clean glass jar the fuel from my bike and a control jar of fresh fuel i let my sample set for a day and found out i had rust in it it setteled to the bottom of the jar. so i went and got my b-b gun round pellets took out the petcock and taped it off and filled the tank with b-bs and started shaking the crap out of it for like an hour then i dumped out the pellets and they were covered in crap so i went and got denatured alcohol and dumped some in and put new pellets in again and did the shake for an another hour dumped out and rinsed good with the alcohol blow out with air and let dry for 2 days then i took fiberglass risen and put in my tank and rolled around the hole tank removed tape on petcock and let drain set it unside on gas cap and let dry for 3 days and i tell ya what that worked awsome not more rust and sealed the inside of tank quiet nicely so take a sample off fuel half a jar and let set just to see any then settles out we tryin to save that carb yet lol and if push comes to shove that 250 carb will work just take the jets from the 300 carb and put em in hope we get this figured soon weather going to break soon itll be rideing time again lol -corey-

 

Kawasaki Bayou carb problem solved!!! I've had all the same problems as everyone else that has a 300 Bayou. Endless leaking gas, will not run with out the choke on or start in cold weather, and spark plug gumming up etc..... I have managed to solve all these problems in short order. Here's how.... Get yourself a carburator to fit a 300 Honda TRX Fourtrax if you can. I got mine off of E bay. It fits in pretty easily if you remove the air box. (air box=AB) Two 6mm bolts to get it out and a third for the voltage regulator on the side of the AB. next loosen the clamps for the hose between the carb and AB. The the AB comes right out the top. From the space where the AB used to be you can acess the carb to change it. The new carb will fit right on the engine no prob. The hose between the carb and AB is a little tight but does fit on the carb and in the frame. I had changed the throttle thumb lever and cable to the Honda TRX 300 model simply because it went with the new carburator but it seems to me that the bayou thumb lever and cable would have worked with the new carb too. the choke plunger will have to be changed to fit the new carb though. The air box will fit right back in also. If the carb has been set for the TRX there is no need to tamper with the ajustments on the carb. The bike should work perfect. All I can say is that my Quad works better than when it was brand new....... Honestly

 

is the carb u used a mikuni or kiehin>interesting mixin of the breeds and it works huh go figure lol

 

Just wanted to let you know that the Honda carb trick is amazing. My kawasaki choke would not screw into the honda carb so I took the little plunger thing off and just stuck it down in the hole and siliconed a bottle top on to keep water and mud out. So now it has no choke, but it doesn't need it, fires right up with no hesitation. Air intake side of carb is a couple mm's larger and had to split the hose to fit on it.
Took it to Mud Nationals this week and it never missed a beat!!

 

94 Bayou carb problem

I know this has been discussed quite a bit. I'm having the same problem with the fuel pouring out on the ground. I had the problem for awhile and just would turn the fuel valve to off. Then for some reason it stopped doing it for about a year and I could leave the valve open during that time. It's been a problem for a couple of years now. I'm not too knowledgable mechanically but when I have time I would take the carb off and see what I can do. I'm just wondering is it possible to just clean or reposition parts to fix or do I need a carburator kit to fix the problem. Thanks if anyone is out their

 

well dirt is the main problem in these carbs it picks it up easy and makes a mess of the works a good cleaning and a new float needle mostly take care of the problem unless the seat it self is pitted but remove that carb and dissasemble the hole thing but you do not have to remove the butterfly just the rubber dioprah on the top of the carb and all the jets and air flow screw just pay close attention on how it comes apart make a order of how they came a apart or take pics and the air fuel screw will have a spring-washer-and a tiny oring on it make sure they al come out of the hole and then soak the carb over night in a good cleaner and use compressed air to blow out the passages in the carb and blow the float needel seat off good to remove tarnish and crud then reassemble the carb and take the air flow screw in till it stops and then back it back out 11/2 turns to start out let us know if we can be more help -corey-

 

Ok Corey...thanks...can the needle be purchased without buying the entire carb kit? My nearest Kawi dealer is 70 miles away unless a replacement can be found at a motorcycle shop that sells Yamaha or Polaris.

 

hello guys this may sound silly but do anny off you run them little inline fuel filters if not thats half ya trouble even if you think your tank is clean small bits off **** gets in there and they flood ther bums off

 

I have been playing aroud with the carb on my klf 300. Its a keihin,cvk series. I have been working on carbs. for a long time, mainly auto and small eng.... kinda new to motorcycle and atv carbs. I got it running the other day , but had to take it back down I thought I had the float to low. While I was blowing it out I noticed that at the top of the primary jet tube, the air was coming out of what looked to be, where a plug used to be. So what I am getting at is the primary jet is open to the bowl. Is this how it should be or did a plug blow out? I really did not notice before, allthough this opening is cleaner than the rest of the carb...and now it will only idle any touch of gas and it dies . Does any one have any thoughts, or know how this should be? Thanks for any help anyone can give.

 

do you have pics of this you can post so we can inspect with you ?-corey-

 

I will wor on that tonite.