Try putting some grafite in the cylinder, that is if you can get the key out.

If that does not work try wd40 or light weight oil, something that would release the tumblers.
If that does not work get a hammer

 

Thanks for the reply man. I tried WD-40, but no luck

And I'm sure I would screw something up if I tried using grafite or hammer. I was able to remove the lightbulbs, so hopefully my battery will be okay.

So I guess I'm going to have to call a locksmith, right? I should mention the keys I'm using now are not the originals, but ones made by a locksmith after I lost my old ones. And oddly, the same key wont operate both the ignition and gas cap, so I have two. Could that be the problem?

 

Thanks for the reply man. I tried WD-40, but no luck

And I'm sure I would screw something up if I tried using grafite or hammer. I was able to remove the lightbulbs, so hopefully my battery will be okay.

So I guess I'm going to have to call a locksmith, right? I should mention the keys I'm using now are not the originals, but ones made by a locksmith after I lost my old ones. And oddly, the same key wont operate both the ignition and gas cap, so I have two. Could that be the problem?

YEAH

 

Instead of removing bulbs you could just take your seat off, get to the battery (in case if you have a screwdriver) and disconnect it (in case if you have a wrench).

 

A Hammer? What? Push "in" on the key and turn it back towards ignition. Should be pretty easy...

 

A Hammer? What? Push "in" on the key and turn it back towards ignition. Should be pretty easy...

Thanks, I would think so too. But no matter how hard I push, the **** thing doesn't budge.

Btw, what is "park" for anyway? My handlebar didn't lock; it seems only the rear lights came on...

 

Thats basically all its for, visibility without moving.
I went out and tried mine and your correct, it locks into "park", and the key will come out, I just pushed in and wiggled it a little and it jumps right out. If that doesnt work you probably will end up removing the switch all together as something is broken.

 

Thats basically all its for, visibility without moving.
I went out and tried mine and your correct, it locks into "park", and the key will come out, I just pushed in and wiggled it a little and it jumps right out. If that doesnt work you probably will end up removing the switch all together as something is broken.

Yeah, I tried wiggling it all over and with a lot of force...nothing

Thanks for checking though, I really appreciate it!

 

I've had a bad set of keys before. I had to keep a little pressure on turning, while jiggling them in and out. I finally found the original and had a good set made. Might have something to do with the position of the bars, I doubt it, but never hurts to check.

 

Yeah, I tried wiggling it all over and with a lot of force...nothing

Thanks for checking though, I really appreciate it!

Try moving the handlebars while you wiggle the key and lock...might be just against the stop and that may be keeping the cylinder from turning. (kinda like in a car when you wiggle the steering wheel to remove the key.

just a thought.

 

remove the negative battery tyerminal untill you can get a new lock.

 

Happened to me a couple times, it actually helped to go do something else for a few minutes (to chill out) and then come back and try wiggling the handlebars all over creation. My handlebars lock into place 'sortof', so it helps to find a place that relieves the most stress on the locks.

You can call the locksmith, but in the meantime, it can't hurt to keep trying the key. Unless you get to the point where you are using vise-grips to turn it. That would be a bad idea.

 

Try moving the handlebars while you wiggle the key and lock...might be just against the stop and that may be keeping the cylinder from turning. (kinda like in a car when you wiggle the steering wheel to remove the key.

just a thought.

It's not same on cruisers as on the other bikes, lock is under our a$$es and not on the handlebars

 

I think several posts here are confused...

I believe Red has his ignition switch stuck on "Park", not his fork lock stuck. Neither has anything to do with the other.

And, Red, one thing that bothers me about your setup...2 different keys for ignition and gas cap. Unless you've changed either lock, the keys should be the same...that is, if the keys were ground identically. I'm guessing the keys caused the problem and may have buggered the iginition switch.

 

Yeah, I was getting confused, and I thought it was just me. I'm thinking the handle bar lock and the ignition are in two different places, what gives??

I think the best thing is to call that locksmith and have him come and fix it, THEN tell he you aren't paying for it because it was a key he made. Unless you had it made at Wally World. Either way, it looks like a smith is going to be the way you go.

Bummer

 

It's not same on cruisers as on the other bikes, lock is under our a$$es and not on the handlebars

Oops. I guess I am just too young and hip to know about cruisers. (That, and my park locks the fork.)

The idea that the keys themselves may be the problem is an interesting idea. I remember the minivan we had as a kid had to have very special keys made, as the new keys we had made were to crisp. The lock and the old key had sort of worn together, and the locksmith had to 'weather' the new key.

Sounds like you may want to just get all new lock cores.

 

Tells you how much I read, before trying to help. And the fact, it was a 900 in the intro went right by me. Moving the key in and out and up and down while having some light turning pressure has worked for me.

 

How about plan B: Take your key code to your dealer and have them cut a new key.

 

The keys may not be cut correctly from the shoulder. Thats the part of the key at the end of the keyway and stops the key in the proper location. When the spacing is wrong the cuts do not line up with the wafers.

The keys are double sided and both sides may not be cut the same. Since only one side functions when inserted there is a difference. So you have 4 possibilities having 2 keys. Insert the key all the way in (no need to force). While gently turning, hard will cause the wafers to bind and not function correctly, slowly pull the key from the ignition. Try this on both keys, turning each key over to use both sides of each key.

Also checked it on my 900. To go into 'Park' the lock face has to press in and stays in when the key is removed. If the lock face is even with the black housing you lock is malfunctioning and will need to be serviced by a professional.

Did I mention that I was locksmith for about 10 years.

Good luck and remember a lock is a precision machine. No one ever fixed a lock using a sledgehammer.

One other trick - insert the key and GENTLY tap the end up and down with a very small hammer. You are trying to free up a frozen part, not drive a railroad spike with a single blow - John Henry

 

UPDATE! Sadly, it's not good news. But first, thanks to all for the replies (I'm going to re-read them to make sure I didn't miss anything).

Anyway, I had the locksmith come out (the same one as before), and he tried various things with no luck. He thinks it may be a stuck tumbler. So now I don't know what else to do, aside from towing it somewhere and getting the whole ignition replaced

Sometimes I wish I knew how to hotwire bikes.

 

Hey dude if you are mechacnily inclined in the least bit you should be able to replace the lock cylinder?