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Klf Bayou 300 ( Starting Problems)

10K views 15 replies 11 participants last post by  WFO-KZ  
#1 ·
I'm hoping somone may be able to help with my quad problem! I own a 86 to 88 Bayou 300. This quads set idle for many years! I decided to fix it up and start riding... Thats where the fun started! I replaced the carb with an aftermarket rather than stock due to price. I replaced Battery,Rebulit Petcock, and replaced several cables! The problem begins by the Quad not wanting to start without aid of pulling! Once the Quads been pullstarted if it dies it may or may not start back up!! This is a big Problem! Where should I begin to look to figure this Problem out? I'm not a mechanic by any stretch of the means..I wish I were!!

Chad_82
 
#5 ·
An Aftermarket carb might not be exacly setup for your bike.. most carbs out of the box are not "ready to go" . You might have to get fimilar with you bike, ake the carb off and on is not a huge task. 1st time migth take awhile but you will get better at the more you take it off (trust me you will)..
you say it sat idle. did you change the filters and fluids? did you check the gas tank make sure it's not full of rust or who knows what?..
Chances are you carb is not setup up properly,, I suggest you get to knwo what the settings are and how to adjust them. 1 thing I have learned with these bikes if hey don't start within the 10-20 seconds they aren't.
you'll need to dig deeper
 
#6 ·
im with nate on that comp test if it sat it could have siezed the pistons into there lands nad not sealing against the wall of the cylinder.

as for pull starting are you refering to being pulled behind a car/truck etc?

and you may also have to adjust the air mix screw for your alitutide levels

just a thoght but id do a comp test right off the bat to eliminate that as a prob.-corey-
 
#7 ·
If it doesn't start back up next time...

There are four things to make an engine run: fuel, air, spark, and compression. Take one away, the motor won't run.

Check for spark at the plug by removing the plug from the head and grounding it to the block. Use the pull start and see if the plug is firing.

A compression gauge is the best way to check for compression, but there are a couple of "*******" way to checking it (I'm a ******* so I can say that-actually I'm more of a hill-billy). Search for "compression" on this forum for different ways.

Fuel must make it into the cylinder, so it has to go from the tank, through the petcock, into the carb bowl, up the jets, and into the venturi tube. From the ventrui tube, it gets mixed with air going into the intake tube, and past the intake valve, and into the cylinder.

Air is simple. Check the air filter. Check for leaks around the hose connections. Leaks=messed up air/fuel ratio (stoichometery -I think I spelled that right).
 
#9 ·
I grew up in North Carolina going to public schools. We learned three things in school:

1. How to make the best darn sour mash whiskey in a homemade still.
2. How to shoot a side by side 10 gauge shot gun.
3. Everything about how to work on cars. NASCAR teams were all around my home town, so they figured that the children at NC schools would be working there instead of going and doing more important things like college.
 
#10 ·
Chad, I would go with Tim's first thread. It can only be a certain few things that not make one run properly. Like he stated air, fuel, and spark. If you could I would try to go back to the original carb to see if it could be rebuilt. the kits are cheap and that would eliminate the possible carb problem. If that doesn't work, then its time to look deeper, such as valve seals, carbon deposits on the valves, and even compression checks. If you plan on going about this by yourself vs. a dealer, I would suggest a Clymer manual. They are invaluable and give plenty of helpful pics and tips. Good Luck, let us know what you find out. Maybe we can help further.
 
#11 ·
tim lol.....we tennesse folk in my family and kentucky a true hillbilly lol-corey-

as for the no run bike the first thing i learned was to see if you have fuel goin to the carb have a spark and then comp.....but in this case of settin for a while i would reverse that .comp first,spark,then fuel. cause the rings can get stuck in ward and not seal.just a thought -corey-
 
#12 ·
tim lol.....we tennesse folk in my family and kentucky a true hillbilly lol-corey-

as for the no run bike the first thing i learned was to see if you have fuel goin to the carb have a spark and then comp.....but in this case of settin for a while i would reverse that .comp first,spark,then fuel. cause the rings can get stuck in ward and not seal.just a thought -corey-
corey and I make a great team, we think alike :shock: .....something else to check since it has been sitting...take a close look at wires, cracked insulation will short a wire to ground and cause similar probs.
 
#14 ·
ccbayou... if your valve is stuck shut you can take off the inspection cover to the valves and spray sum pb blaster on em let it set for a day then come back out the with a small ball peen hammer and a regualr hammer.take the wooden part of the ball peen put it on the rocker arm where you adjust the valve and take the other hammer and lightly tap the top of the ball peen and that will push the valve open of its rust spot then spary it again with pb blaster and try to start it.

if it runs let it warm up with out revin it up change the oil and filter. then let it run to warm it up again no revin .....shut it down let it cool off.then go out on a test ride but dont beat it for the first day let that oil do it job and lube the valve and guide back up good. hope this may help out -corey-