It looks to be the same procedure on your bike as the later KZ1000,KZ1100, and GPZ1100. First disconnect the NEGATIVE (-) battery wire to prevent sparks, remove the alternator cover and have a drip pan to catch the oil that may come out(have a new gasket on hand as the old one usually tears).

The starter motor has a double reduction gear before it reaches the engine starter gear, and It looks like a oil seal is there to prevent an oil leak on or near the starter motor shaft.

Remove the bolts holding the starter motor to the engine, and with the motor's electrical cable disconnected, remove the starter.

 

Thanks MIke,

I coulden't wait so I went and did it. Had to get the exhaust for the turbo out of the way first then it went like this... Remove the chrome cover over the starter first (2 10mm bolts) then remove the left foot peg (2 14mm bolts) remove shift lever (10mm bolt) then remove side cover over clutch rod and front sprocket (4 or 5 10mm bolts, too lazy to go out and look) then disconnected negative cable on battery, then remove starter wire from lower side of starter, remove 2 10mm bolts at back of starter, then remove cam chain tensioner (sp) from engine (don't turn motor over at all till it's back in) then I was able to remove starter. After doing all this and getting new to me starter in and tensioner back in I gave it a turn only to find out the problem is not the starter but between that and the crank. I haven't looked into it yet but it sounds like a chain or something is loose and not engaging all the time. Works okay when the bike is warm but not when cold.

Oh well, back to the garage. Joe

 

It might be that intermediate gear that acts like a double reduction between the starter motor and the crank shaft(that's what my bike has).

Have you looked at the over running clutch behind the alternator rotor? they develop wear over time and act like this. Also the type and grade of engine oil affects this clutch. The starter clutch consists of three rollers and springs mounted behind the magnetic rotor, and will need it removed to service it.

 

Sell me your turbo Z1R. Otherwise get it serviced by someone who knows what they are doing! Don't ruin a classic. I have a 1978 Z1R with an 1105 kit, Andrews 2x cams, and Mikuni 29 Smoothbores and for a 1978 it goes. I also have a 1978 KZ1000 A2A, and a 1980 Z1 Classic fuel injected. Your Turbo is a rare gem. Seriously, get an original Kawasaki shop manual for your bike, the stuff you're talking about is easy. You'll find you can fix your bike better than anyone.