When changing the fork oil on my KZ750H3, first, a rough amount is poured down the forks and then the distance from the top of the inner tube to the oil level is measured. No matter what I use, be it a wooden dowl, a metal tube or whatever, it is difficult for me to see the actual oil level. Part of it may be my old eyes, but most oils are dyed a color, but when spread out thin, the coloring is nearly invisable. What tricks do folks here use to measure (see) it? I was thinking maybe paint whatever I use a flat white? Thanks!
polkat
Yea, I can see what's wet, but when dropping the rod into the fork it almost always gets smeared by the inside sides of the fork, and there's no distinct line visable. I'll give the UV light a try, but the above might kill that idea. I've tried this several times, but trying to hold the rod so it won't touch the sides is difficult. Maybe I should try making a guide of some type.
Nice tool, but the oil level spec on the KZ750H3 is 436mm below the top of the tube (fully extended). That tool wouldn't come close. The problem for me is that the thin spread of new fork oil on the measuring rod (regardless of the dye color) is basically clear, and therefore hard for me to see. I was thinking that I might paint the end of the rod I'm using a flat white marked at 436mm and see if that helps. Wadaya think?
My eyes struggle with dipsticks these days. With all the accurate fuel injection and improved oxidative stability of oils, and the lower viscosities now used, the oil on the dipstick is pretty thin and clear. This versus an old SAE 50 grade filled with black soot in the old days. So I've put a 500 Watt halogen bulb in the garage. Dipsticks will often have a cross hatch to hold more oil and made the "read" easier.
herk, I have a copy of the actual Kawasaki KZ750 series service manual. There is a suppliment in the back for the 1982 models, as mine is. It states that dry, rebuilt KZ750H forks (not the R series) should have 308 +/- 4cc's of oil, and that the level of the oil should be 436 +/- 2mm's below the top of the tube with the springs out and the forks fully extended (not compressed). It states that the oil level height is more important then the actual amount of oil used.The free spring length limit is 483mm (or roughly 19-1/32").
I'm going to try spraying my metal rod with flat white paint today and see if that helps.
I'm going to try spraying my metal rod with flat white paint today and see if that helps.
I used a clear piece of 1/8" (or so) plastic hose glued on the end of a plastic syringe (used a turkey baster first time), taped to an aluminum rod that has been marked with a file exactly xx" from the end of the rod and hose.
Dump some oil (too much) in the fork tube, stick the homemade fork tool in the fork until the file mark is even with the top of the fork, squeeze the turkey baster (or pull out on the syringe) and let it suck out all the fluid it can. Then do the same to the other fork. Fork oil level will be exactly the same in both forks, and will be at the exact specified level.
Hey, my eyes aren't as great as they used to be either!
Dump some oil (too much) in the fork tube, stick the homemade fork tool in the fork until the file mark is even with the top of the fork, squeeze the turkey baster (or pull out on the syringe) and let it suck out all the fluid it can. Then do the same to the other fork. Fork oil level will be exactly the same in both forks, and will be at the exact specified level.
Hey, my eyes aren't as great as they used to be either!
I'm anal retentive. I try to be very exact when doing things, since if I'm not, I tend to worry about whether my inaccuracy is a part of The Problem.
That said, allow me to point out that a 4cc inaccuracy on a fork tube taking 308cc's of oil, is what... a 1.something% inaccuracy? So, wouldn't a +/- a coupla mm's accuracy in a fork tube be pretty damned close? Enough said methinks. :wink:
steell, I can see that idea, and it's the best one yet (kawpaul, sorry if you said the same thing and I didn't catch it). The vacuum would suck the oil level down to where ever you set it at, and not remove any more. I have all the stuff and will make the thing tomorrow. Thanks again all who responded!!
Hey no problem. Just glad you are getting those forks worked out. I actually saw that method on youtube and since I already had some tubing and a syringe thing I just put them together and measured my tubing. Since the tubing was curling I taped it to a strand of 12 gauge wire so it would be straight.
Worked like a charm.
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