Check the main fuse first. Unless you shorted something changing the battery though that is not it as a blown fuse will not cause sluggish cranking. So use a test meter working form the starter wires back to the battery. I am assuming you checked and the new battery is good. New is not always good; sometimes they are internally faulted from the factory.

 

also verify your battery connections, sometimes they have a high resistance even if thet look good

 

Highley recomend charging the new battery, most new ones do not come with a full charge.

Then start looking.

 

^^^^^
Yup. Did you charge it?

 

The battery was dry and the shop had to fill it and charge it. They claimed they charged it to 18 (amps ?). So..for the moment, I'll assume that they charged it properly. The symptom is the same as before replacing the battery...so either the new battery is no good OR, there's something else.

Buck55 - I thought that a fuse either worked or didn't work...not that there was an in between? But...if it's just a fuse, great! There's a fuse that 'lays' across the battery...it has a spare as well. Is that the fuse that I should swap out?

 

Does the fuel pump cycle on and then off?
Do the running lights come on?

 

Running lights come on bright. Fuel pump cycle...not sure...I'll say that all looks and sounds normal...except for the sluggish starting.

 

Fuel pump...when you turn on key, you will hear a motor running down by the fuel tank for 2-3 seconds and then it shuts off.

Post back.

 

I'll verify tonight...but I'm 99% sure that it's making the same startup sounds. I didn't realize that was the fuel pump that was running. It makes a small sound for a few seconds and goes away. Again..pretty sure it's there...but will double check.

 

I have my money on a loose or corroded cable from the starter relay down to the starter. Clean all your cables ends, both hot and ground side. Another quick and dirty test would be to put on safety glasses, take a screwdriver, and bridge it between the two large cable connections on the starter relay. If the engine cranks over fine, then you may have bad contacts on the starter relay. If it is still sluggish, time to break out the meter and start testing. It could be a bad cable, or worst case the starter has either bad bearings or bad brushes.

 

put on safety glasses, QUOTE]

Good call!!! Always be prepared for the slip-ups.

 

The battery was dry and the shop had to fill it and charge it. They claimed they charged it to 18 (amps ?). So..for the moment, I'll assume that they charged it properly. The symptom is the same as before replacing the battery...so either the new battery is no good OR, there's something else.

Buck55 - I thought that a fuse either worked or didn't work...not that there was an in between? But...if it's just a fuse, great! There's a fuse that 'lays' across the battery...it has a spare as well. Is that the fuse that I should swap out?

Yes sir you would sure be right that a fuse is either blown or not, but your first post said it was sluggish before the battery change and not turning over after. Some use the terms turning over and cranking to mean different things; no telling what you mean, but failing to turn over to me means the starter will not cause the engine to spin the crankshaft.

 

Ya ,I'm thinking bad starter here ..how many miles on her ?

 

The fact you are still having some electrical functions in the bike indicate it is not the main fuse so forget that. Use a multimeter to see if you are getting 12.5 or so volts to the starter. If you are it may well be a bad starter.

 

It couldn't hurt to throw a battery charger on it for a few hours-- maybe the shop didn't actually charge it, just mixed it and put it in. If you have a charger on hand, that is. Worst case it doesn't help, best case it starts and you're golden.

 

Good feedback.
1) To make it in my simple terms...I push the starter button, it makes a sluggish noise. That was before and after the new battery replacement. No real difference with the new battery.
2) Mileage - about 6700 miles.

Any ballpark on cost to replace Starter?

Thanks!

 

i would check all the cables first, make sure they are all connected properly before I start thinking about replacing the starter. charge the batter off the bike while you are checking the cables, then try it again. If it doesn't work take the battery back and have them check to see if it is good or bad. If the battery is good at that point then you might start looking at other components, (the starter). I'm no mechanic but I would eliminate the simple stuff first.

 

Good feedback.
1) To make it in my simple terms...I push the starter button, it makes a sluggish noise. That was before and after the new battery replacement. No real difference with the new battery.
2) Mileage - about 6700 miles.

Any ballpark on cost to replace Starter?

Thanks!

6700M that seems low for a shot starter but stranger thing have happened ..disconect the neg terminal on the battery and try cleaning up the conections on the starter itself ..pull them off and wire brush them . Especially the ground !! If you have a weak/bad ground you will not get full amperage through the starter .

 

Good feedback.
1) To make it in my simple terms...I push the starter button, it makes a sluggish noise. That was before and after the new battery replacement. No real difference with the new battery.
2) Mileage - about 6700 miles.

Any ballpark on cost to replace Starter?

Thanks!

Do not buy a starter just yet.
Much troubleshooting to be done.

 

Starter Solenoid Checkout

Some simple steps to determine what is working and what's not:

1.Fully charge and test the battery(most bike shops can load test the battery, and then use a floating ball hydrometer to check specific gravity in the charged cells).

2.Clean all battery terminals of corrosion.

3.Tighten all starting related connections(Positive RED(+) battery terminal, Negative BLACK(-)terminal) and from the terminal to the engine case. All connections must be clean and tight.

4.Clean the cable from the starter solenoid to the starter motor.

5.Clean and check the "bullet connectors" going to the coil side of the starter solenoid.

6.Try again to start the bike.

7.If no luck, go to step #8

8.Wearing eye protection, bridge with pliers or a screwdriver the two heavy duty(large)terminals on the solenoid. If the bike cranks, your solenoid may be bad.

9. If the starter won’t turn over, one of several things has happened; The starter motor has seized due to brushes binding up, lack of lubrication in the bushings of the motor, the battery is weak , the engine has seized or it could be a combination of any of the above. Some websites for starter motor rebuild kits are:

A. RICK'S MOTORSPORT ELECTRIC STARTER BRUSHES

B. starter motor repair kits


10.The dealer may want $$$ for a new solenoid, but take your old one along and visit the nearest riding lawn mower shop. They have solenoids for about $15 that with a little work will fit. Be aware that the new solenoid from the lawn mower shop may require a ground wire for it to work.

11. I’d recommend upgrading from the existing battery cables to at least 6 gauge welding cables.
They are available in two colors(RED and BLACK) have more flexibility due to being constructed with finer conductors, and will fit in tighter areas.

12. The welding cable is sold by the foot, so take careful measurements or bring your old cables along. Most battery shops might be able to supply the cable too, so call to find out. The battery shop should be able to crimp/swage on the end of the welding cable the terminal ends or lugs using either a dedicated crimping machine or a tool that looks like a bolt cutter that has special dies to terminate the cable.

 

I have the same problem. The only differance is fuel pump does not prime. I do have a click to the starter selenoid / starter. main light is off but all others seem fine

 

I have the same problem. The only differance is fuel pump does not prime. I do have a click to the starter selenoid / starter. main light is off but all others seem fine

It would be better to start your own post and describe all of your symtoms.
Sometimes can get confusing dealing with two problems at once.