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which oil type for 05/1600 Nomad?

27K views 32 replies 18 participants last post by  bluestringer  
#1 ·
Planning to winterize the bike soon and want to change the oil,.oil filter,..and clean the oil filter screen as per service manual instructions. It appears as though SAE 10W-40 would be the appropriate oil for my climatic region,..however I'm curious as to what brand names are recommended. Also which Type: API SE, SF or SG. There is also a mention of API SH or SJ with JASO MA,..as type choices. Any comments appreciated.
 
#2 ·
Didn't you see the Simpson episodes where the all the resturaunts in the mall where fed out of one great big vat of all-purpose meat? It's the same with oil! :)

Actually I just changed mine for the winter I use Spectro 4 sae 10w 40 A.P.I SL JASO MA with a 2$ SuperTech filter (thanks nightflight). When I round 6 or 7thousand miles I'll switch to mobile1 fully synthetic
 
#3 ·
I've switched to Mobil 1 Synthetic 15w50w at 8,000 miles on the odometer. Have had no problems and love how smooth the shifting has been since the switch. Avoid all oils that have the "ENERGY CONSERVING" print on the label due to the additives that affect the wet clutch our bikes have. I just found Rotella 5w40w synthetic oil at Wal Mart (hasn't been there for months) so bought 3 gallon jugs of it (all they had on the shelves). I'll switch to the Rotella after I use up the Mobil 1.
 
#4 ·
Just did mine with Rotella Synthetic, at 8500 miles
all I can say is WOW,

it made a difference, Engine seems to run smoother and the gear shifts are also
smoother.

Walmart has it for about 15 bucks a jug, and 2 bucks for the filter


Dave
 
#6 ·
Any of you guys ever had a problem with using sunthetic? I've alway used it my cars after 20000 miles but I've noticed about two oil changes after I start the whole engine starts leaking at just about every seal. Does that happen to anyone else? I wonder if these seals are designed to hold up to the slicker thinner oil.
 
#7 ·
supposedly that is amyth that synthetic causes leaks. i have used synthetic oil in my last 3 vehicles which i bought new. changed the oil at 3k miles to full synthetic and havent had a problem. even used synthetic on my 94 ZX7 when i had it and never had a problem
 
#10 ·
Frankt07 said:
supposedly that is amyth that synthetic causes leaks. i have used synthetic oil in my last 3 vehicles which i bought new. changed the oil at 3k miles to full synthetic and havent had a problem. even used synthetic on my 94 ZX7 when i had it and never had a problem
that can happen, as I have seen it before, it depends on the age of the car and mileage, on the older cars they can start leaking because of the seal type of rubber they use and over time the seals get not quite as pliable, GM came out with a sythetic gearlube with the 1999 and newer new trucks to use in the rearends and then had to issue a service bulletin advising not to use the synthetic lube in older vehicles because it would adversly affect the axle and pinion seals, causing leaks.
 
#13 ·
I'm no expert but oil is oil. If the viscosity is the same and it meets the motorcycle maker's requirements, i.e., API SE, SF or SG, etc., synthetic should be OK from the getgo. I understand that some automobile manufactory's put synthetic in at the factory, the '06 Corvette to name one. I've put Amsoil in my new Nomad at the first oil change at 600 miles. I ran it in the Volusia for thousands of miles and except for shifting smoother and running better, I didn't notice any adverse effects. My two cents worth!
 
#18 ·
Phatboy said:
Amsoil is good oil but I am a one man boycott against amsoil as long as they use their current marketing tactics. I have a gallon of Rotella 5w-40 sitting here but might go with the mobil-1 truck/suv oil next. Its supposed to be repackaged Delo.
I use Amsoil MCF 10W40 and a Purolator Pure One oil filter. I don't mind all the marketing cr@p. I have a co-worker who is a "dealer" so he just gets me the oil as needed and doesn't bug me. It does help with shifting, noticably smoother than with dino oil. Plus I just do the one oil change when I put the bike away in the fall and I'm good till next fall. More time riding = more fun.
 
#19 ·
I'm running Mobil 1, Gold Cap, 15w-50 in my Nomad. Changed over at about 9,000 miles (three months ago) have 12,600 miles now. Expect to change oil again next fall. I've been running Mobile 1 in my vehicles for years. Change oil at 10,000 miles, whether the need it or not.

No leakage from any of the seals on any vehicles. Scoot shifts much easier and the engine noise quiets down much faster now.
 
#20 ·
BigJohn said:
I'm running Mobil 1, Gold Cap, 15w-50 in my Nomad. Changed over at about 9,000 miles (three months ago) have 12,600 miles now. Expect to change oil again next fall. I've been running Mobile 1 in my vehicles for years. Change oil at 10,000 miles, whether the need it or not.

No leakage from any of the seals on any vehicles. Scoot shifts much easier and the engine noise quiets down much faster now.

Good to hear that John. I have been following a few posts on oil here on the forum and did an change yesterday with the same you are using. Mine just hit the 15,000 mile mark. I didn't get to ride it but about 30 miles yesterday after the switch but it did seem the shifting was more quiet/smoother. I will put some miles on her today though. As always thanks for the good info I find here.
 
#21 ·
bross said:
I use Amsoil MCF 10W40 and a Purolator Pure One oil filter. I don't mind all the marketing cr@p. I have a co-worker who is a "dealer" so he just gets me the oil as needed and doesn't bug me. It does help with shifting, noticably smoother than with dino oil. Plus I just do the one oil change when I put the bike away in the fall and I'm good till next fall. More time riding = more fun.
That is the same combo I will be using. At what mileage did you change over to synthetic? I have a little over 2000 on mine now and I see no reason to not make the change.
 
#22 ·
Idaho said:
That is the same combo I will be using. At what mileage did you change over to synthetic? I have a little over 2000 on mine now and I see no reason to not make the change.
I didn't change until about 12,000kms but not from any worry about changing to synthetic to early. I was still researching and trying to decide whether to switch to synthetic or not and when I finally did that just happened to be the mileage I was at.

All three new bikes since then get changed to synthetic at the first oil change I do after their first service. I have no problem with switching to synthetic out of the crate, it's not gonna hurt breakin, it's not gonna make the engine burn oil, it's just oil, good oil, but still just oil.

Just started running Amsoil in our 2 stroke dirt bike, we just tore it down and rebuilt it and the bearings were OK but I replaced them anyway so hoping to see better results running Amsoil in it. It gets run pretty hard so better oil sure can't hurt it.
 
#24 ·
Idaho said:
That is the same combo I will be using. At what mileage did you change over to synthetic? I have a little over 2000 on mine now and I see no reason to not make the change.
You'll probably be fine switching now, but as far as using a synthetic in a brand new never ran motor, there is a lot of reseach on this subject and the overwhelming majority of people, 'experts' and others, say to get several thousand miles on dino before making the switch. If the subject intrests you, do a google search on switching to synthetic oil and you'll find a ton of relevant info.
 
#25 ·
Xlr8n said:
You'll probably be fine switching now, but as far as using a synthetic in a brand new never ran motor, there is a lot of reseach on this subject and the overwhelming majority of people, 'experts' and others, say to get several thousand miles on dino before making the switch. If the subject intrests you, do a google search on switching to synthetic oil and you'll find a ton of relevant info.
Yeah I know, but look at the date of all that research and then look and see how many cars come from the factory running synthetic nowadays. People seem to think that synthetic oil is some weird snake oil that is too slippery to do it's job. It's just oil, and the only real benefit or difference I see between synthetic and dino is that synthetic holds it's properties for a longer period of time, other than that, it's all just oil. Dino oil nowadays is darn good and if changed as per manufacturers recommended drain intervals I bet you'll never see an oil related failure.
 
#26 ·
bross said:
Yeah I know, but look at the date of all that research and then look and see how many cars come from the factory running synthetic nowadays. People seem to think that synthetic oil is some weird snake oil that is too slippery to do it's job. It's just oil, and the only real benefit or difference I see between synthetic and dino is that synthetic holds it's properties for a longer period of time, other than that, it's all just oil. Dino oil nowadays is darn good and if changed as per manufacturers recommended drain intervals I bet you'll never see an oil related failure.
That's why it won't hurt anything to break it in with dino for a couple thousand miles first!:biggrin: Seriously though, I do understand your point about using synthetic for break-in, but until I find enough proof to disprove those article from a few years back, I'll personally still break in with dino. Plus, the factory ships the bike out with dino, so that what they obviously intend it to be broken in with. I know there's plenty of people who believe it's broken in in the first 20 miles or so, but it's just too big of an investment to take any unnecessary chances IMHO.